Fret the first fret when checking string action?

Megadebt

Experienced
In this video, starting at 3:42ish he says to fret the first fret when checking string action, is this correct?

 
The question was asked and answered on the youtube video by musicnomad as follows:

Q - Why do you capo the first fret when checking action? Never seen this done like so..

A- In the flow, string height comes before nut height. The measurements we have are based on using the pick capo at the first fret. Since the nut has not been addressed yet you would be using a height reference point that could be off. The first fret is fixed height to adjust from.
 
Some people do this, but in my experience, if the nut is cut properly, either way is fine. Find a method that works for you and stick with it. The only time I capo the first fret is when I’m checking the relief.

How I adjust string action: After adjusting the relief, I set the first and sixth string as low as they’ll go without buzz on every fret and raise them until they are at a comfortable height (I like a medium-higher action). I then set the other four using a radius gauge.

As long as I’m happy with my action, I’ll never have to adjust it again; just a small tweak of the truss rod when the seasons change.
 
Here’s more food for thought: People get so hung up oh having their strings follow the same radius as the fretboard, but all of that gets thrown out the second you fret a string.
 
Here’s more food for thought: People get so hung up oh having their strings follow the same radius as the fretboard, but all of that gets thrown out the second you fret a string.
Why set the string height at all? It changes the second you fret a string :)

Because setting the string height on the "outside" strings and then adjusting the others based on radius (and relative to the height of the outside strings) maintains a consistent height for all the strings.

You could adjust every string's height individually but you'd probably end up exactly where you do by following the radius... Or very close.
 
Because setting the string height on the "outside" strings and then adjusting the others based on radius (and relative to the height of the outside strings) maintains a consistent height for all the strings.
And in my experience, if your frets are level and as long as you don’t have buzz on the outer strings, you can set the other strings to a radius gauge and there’s a high probability that they won’t buzz either.
 
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Here’s more food for thought: People get so hung up oh having their strings follow the same radius as the fretboard, but all of that gets thrown out the second you fret a string.
It's critical if you want consistent action among each string. You think it all gets thrown out the window when you fret a string? Set your bridge to have a concave curve. Enjoy.
 
This is how I check the action on a guitar. This has worked for me and my friends that ask me to set up their guitars for the last 10 or so years. It is a bit different than most:

1. Make sure the nut isnt causing any buzz because its been set up for someone playing drop A.
2. Fret the 1st and last fret where the neck connects to the body (17 ish). and check the neck bow. Adjust the neck if necessary and check intonation.
3. lower the action until notes die when you bend that string a whole step or more at the 12th fret and up to the 20th or so fret. Retune the string.
4. raise the action until those notes no longer die. Retune the string and check again. That is the optimal position of the string for the guitar given any neck warping.
5. repeat for all strings and then check the profile to make sure nothing wonky is going on after the neck has adjusted to the tension.
6. Double check
7. Check intonation.
8. Make sure the string height on each string follows the neck diameter profile (string profiles should be convex) and then if you want, measure the height at the top of the 12th fret to the bottom of the string. I hate doing this because it gives me OCD. The guitars neck is what it is and you cannot fix a warped a neck.
 
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This is how I check the action on a guitar. This has worked for me and my friends that ask me to set up their guitars for the last 10 or so years. It is a bit different than most:

1. Make sure the nut isnt causing any buzz because its been set up for someone playing drop A.
2. Fret the 1st and last fret where the neck connects to the body (17 ish). and check the neck bow. Adjust the neck if necessary and check intonation.
3. lower the action until notes die when you bend that string a whole step or more at the 12th fret and up to the 20th or so fret. Retune the string.
4. raise the action until those notes no longer die. Retune the string and check again. That is the optimal position of the string for the guitar given any neck warping.
5. repeat for all strings and then check the profile to make sure nothing wonky is going on after the neck has adjusted to the tension.
6. Double check
7. Check intonation.
8. Make sure the string height on each string follows the neck diameter profile (string profiles should be convex) and then if you want, measure the height at the top of the 12th fret to the bottom of the string. I hate doing this because it gives me OCD. The guitars neck is what it is and you cannot fix a warped a neck.
And you think the relief should be what ?
This also does not identify fret dressing issues.
 
And you think the relief should be what ?
This also does not identify fret dressing issues.
There should be a small gap at the 8th fret when the 1st and 14-17th are fretted. Enough to see a small gap between the string and the fret. I believe its around .1/128" or 0.010 inches with a feeler gauge. I generally judge by tapping the string and then adjust slightly based off of fret buzz. If there is no gap or the gap is quite pronounced, the truss rod needs adjustment. Generally speaking a flatter neck or even a neck with a back bow will buzz on the lower frets, and a neck with more relief would buzz more in the middle of the neck. Yes, you are correct. That does NOT address fret dressing/leveling issues and other disappointments / nightmares with dried out fretboards causing raised fret edges. Leveling can compensate for a slightly warped neck.
 
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Why set the string height at all? It changes the second you fret a string :)

Because setting the string height on the "outside" strings and then adjusting the others based on radius (and relative to the height of the outside strings) maintains a consistent height for all the strings.

You could adjust every string's height individually but you'd probably end up exactly where you do by following the radius... Or very close.
I usually end up with a slightly larger radius than the fretboard, with the heavier strings having a tiny bit more height because they tend to buzz if I don't....
 
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