Fret Leveling/Crowning Tool Recommendations?

JD_

Inspired
I made the mistake of buying a new Epiphone Dave Rude Flying V out of Switzerland which had some factory QC issues, most notably a poor fret job. There is quite a bit of fret buzz in some areas of the neck, with one particular note (7th fret, D string) being very bad. I'm in the USA and figured Gibson USA would stand behind it, but they referred me back to the dealer in Switzerland. I've done all my guitar work for many years, so it's not worthwhile to me to get involved with arguing with the dealer about the cost of shipping to and from Switzerland if I can handle the issues myself.

I've never done fret work, but I have determined that the frets are not leveled well, and in the case of the really buzzy note at the 7th, the 8th fret is high. I'm thinking of grabbing an under-string leveling beam, and a crowning file. I see a wide variety out there from Stewmac to cheaper Amazon stuff. I have other guitars that I may use the tools on, but the tools would not likely see a ton of use since I am a hobbyist only.

Any recommendations on reasonably-priced tools that will get the job done? Anyone used the FretGuru Dagger crowning file?

Thanks,

-JD
 
My advice is take it to a local skilled Luthier, for your first ever fret job grab sold cheap junk guitars to practice on. If you do want to go ahead with this then dont go cheap on tools its a fools game, in what you save on money it'll cost you in time and quality of the work done. Best and easiest crowning file ive ever owned and one that would be perfect for a amatuer to use is the Stewmac Z file, not cheap at all bust for me its been worth every penny, I'm just a hobbyist too who dont most of the work on his own guitars. You will also need many grades of sandpaper and also need a fret end file. Getting into this can start expensive but for what ive saved over the years fixing up used guitars myself has payed for itself over and over.
 
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My advice is take it to a local skilled Luthier, for your first ever fret job grab sold cheap junk guitars to practice on. If you do want to go ahead with this then dont go cheap on tools its a fools game, in what you save on money it'll cost you in time and quality of the work done. Best and easiest crowning file ive ever owned and one that would be perfect for a amatuer to use is the Stewmac Z file, not cheap at all bust for me its been worth every penny, I'm just a hobbyist too who dont most of the work on his own guitars. You will also need many grades of sandpaper and also need a fret end file. Getting into this can start expensive but for what ive saved over the years fixing up used guitars myself has payed for itself over and over.
Good idea to practice on a junker. I have a cheap mini electric I had bought for one of my kids that I could use for that. Thanks for your reply.
 
You should learn with traditional methods and tools. This teaches you the process and what exactly you are aiming for.
You can make a fret levelling beem out of an old iron woodwork plane sole with self adhesive aluminium oxide paper 600 grit.
Then recrown them with a safe edge triangle file. The Z file will not teach you anything and only half do the job anyway. It is about quick not good.
You Also need a good level rule. Don't use a fret rocker without understanding that it only measures the middle fret compared to the ones either side. These may not be correct either and then if you just take the information is isolation you are missing the bigger picture. The truth is if you have more than one high fret (almost never happens) you need to do either a partial or full fret dress . String tension jigs are also poor at replicating string tension.
 
This is the file I use. It has diamonds in it and does a great job. I bought it years ago and can’t remember what I paid for it, but It wasn’t overly expensive. I also have a set of fret guards to protect the fret board when I’m filing/polishing. After I file the frets, usually to get rid of any indentations left by the strings, I use some #0000 steel wool to polish them.

64E9CD44-B406-4D29-9951-7CF093F81C26.jpeg
 
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You should learn with traditional methods and tools. This teaches you the process and what exactly you are aiming for.
You can make a fret levelling beem out of an old iron woodwork plane sole with self adhesive aluminium oxide paper 600 grit.
Then recrown them with a safe edge triangle file. The Z file will not teach you anything and only half do the job anyway. It is about quick not good.
You Also need a good level rule. Don't use a fret rocker without understanding that it only measures the middle fret compared to the ones either side. These may not be correct either and then if you just take the information is isolation you are missing the bigger picture. The truth is if you have more than one high fret (almost never happens) you need to do either a partial or full fret dress . String tension jigs are also poor at replicating string tension.

Yeah, I thought I’d be ok just doing an entire fret job with a fret rocker and some files. Before I even go to the 12th fret the new frets were lower than the worn frets I yanked out. And then I did it again. :D
 
I do have multiple high frets. Still waiting to hear back from the dealer, but if I do it myself, I plan to use a fret hammer to ensure that the high frets are seated, then a long fret leveling beam, and then recrown as needed.
 
I second Andy's recommendation above to use basic tools.

I really like these two videos. I followed their strategy and did complete re-leveling on two guitars since, both turned out pretty good.



 
I'm also with @Andy Eagle I level frets all the time with a good straight level beam with sandpaper wrapped around it. no need for expensive special tools, unless you just want them. Starting on a nice guitar for your first fret level will greatly depend on your ability and confidence in your self.
 
It's about learning the process and how to diagnose the issues in front of you. The number of people that think they have a fret issue when it's something else is surprising . You can only judge a guitar if it is set up completely with the right relief and undamaged strings.
 
It's about learning the process and how to diagnose the issues in front of you. The number of people that think they have a fret issue when it's something else is surprising . You can only judge a guitar if it is set up completely with the right relief and undamaged strings.
I'm sure that's true. I've played guitar for decades, owned many, and have always done my own setup (neck relief, bridge adjustments, intonation, pickup and pot changes, etc.) but fret health is something I have paid almost zero attention to, so I am definitely a novice in that regard. After getting the guitar described in my original post, I suspected frets were any issue, and watched a ton of videos (sounds dumb, kinda like "I saw it on tv, so I did it myself", but that's what we have today). After adjusting the relief to level the fretboard & putting a new set of strings on it, I used a fret rocker to check frets, and sure enough, the 8th fret was high in front of the 7th fret's almost-dead note. There were plenty of high spots on the fretboard, all over the place, so I concluded that the frets had not been leveled properly. I did see a video where a guy demonstrated that a high fret could be due to the fret not being seated properly, which he corrected with a fret hammer. Since it's a new guitar, I guess that could be the case with some or all of my fret issues, but I'm not sure there's a way to find out other than hammering at those high points first.
 
I'm sure that's true. I've played guitar for decades, owned many, and have always done my own setup (neck relief, bridge adjustments, intonation, pickup and pot changes, etc.) but fret health is something I have paid almost zero attention to, so I am definitely a novice in that regard. After getting the guitar described in my original post, I suspected frets were any issue, and watched a ton of videos (sounds dumb, kinda like "I saw it on tv, so I did it myself", but that's what we have today). After adjusting the relief to level the fretboard & putting a new set of strings on it, I used a fret rocker to check frets, and sure enough, the 8th fret was high in front of the 7th fret's almost-dead note. There were plenty of high spots on the fretboard, all over the place, so I concluded that the frets had not been leveled properly. I did see a video where a guy demonstrated that a high fret could be due to the fret not being seated properly, which he corrected with a fret hammer. Since it's a new guitar, I guess that could be the case with some or all of my fret issues, but I'm not sure there's a way to find out other than hammering at those high points first.
If a fret is not seated you can easily see that there is a slight gap. You can't mistake this gap if it's there , the fret will be mobile and just hitting frets with a hammer is a terrible idea. if you have an unseated fret it needs to be pressed back in in a controlled manner and probably glued and clamped. Then the fingerboard needs to be assessed and the frets leveled. In modern guitars the frets are usually glued in and pressed in a fret press so hitting a high spot with a hammer is going to make thing worse by probably distorting the radius in the fret and even making a low spot not to mention breaking the glue joint and making the fret need removing . This would then require the slot cleaning out and the fret reglueing.
 
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If a fret is not seated you can easily see that there is a slight gap. You can't mistake this gap if it's there , the fret will be mobile and just hitting frets with a hammer is a terrible idea. if you have an unseated fret it needs to be pressed back in in a controlled manner and probably glued and clamped. Then the fingerboard needs to be assessed and the frets leveled. In modern guitars the frets are usually glued in and pressed in a fret press so hitting a high spot with a hammer is going to make thing worse by probably distorting the radius in the fret and even making a low spot not to mention breaking the glue joint and making the fret need removing . This would then require the slot cleaning out and the fret reglueing.
Good to know, thanks. Initially I did not see any gaps under the frets, but I took some closeup pictures with my cell phone, and saw what looked like gaps in several places towards the center part of the fret. I then grabbed my set of feeler gauges, and verified that there is, indeed, a gap of .15mm under the 8th fret. I'll check some of the others tomorrow, but surely that's the culprit. I had contacted the dealer a few days ago to complain about the fret work, and fortunately, he is responsive and seems prepared to help. I'll take some pictures tomorrow with the feeler gauges under the frets and send them along. Thanks for the tip on this.
 
Pictures of the fret gaps for anyone that's following along: 20220428_161446.jpg20220429_123850.jpg
That feeler gauge is shaped line the end of a fingernail at the end, so it's fairly far under the fret. Most of half dozen I checked were closer to .10 gap. Waiting for the dealer's response to the pics. Either way, based on the quality of this one, I won't likely take another chance on an Epiphone, even a looker like this one.
 
Pictures of the fret gaps for anyone that's following along: View attachment 100998View attachment 100999
That feeler gauge is shaped line the end of a fingernail at the end, so it's fairly far under the fret. Most of half dozen I checked were closer to .10 gap. Waiting for the dealer's response to the pics. Either way, based on the quality of this one, I won't likely take another chance on an Epiphone, even a looker like this one.
wow - that's bad - was thinking about an Epi inspired by 335, but now seeing this hmm
 
wow - that's bad - was thinking about an Epi inspired by 335, but now seeing this hmm
It wasn't all bad. The pickups are Epi Probuckers, and I was surprised by how much I liked them; I had assumed I would have to replace them. The tuners are Grover, which are better than some of the cheapies I've seen on Epi's in the past, and it's wired for push/pull coil split on the volume knobs. The look is pretty cool (white V with red pickguard and a white painted fretboard, and the neck profile is good for my hand size, so there's a lot to like about it. But for what I paid for it, I think there are higher quality guitars that don't have out-of-the-box QC problems, Schecter and Charvel being a few I have personal experience with. Out of the box, this one had these significant fret issues, the input jack wouldn't take a cable without really pressing hard (I fixed that), the pickguard didn't sit flat on the body under the bridge as it sat partially over the bridge inserts, & one of the pickup height screws was cross-threaded.
 
It wasn't all bad. The pickups are Epi Probuckers, and I was surprised by how much I liked them; I had assumed I would have to replace them. The tuners are Grover, which are better than some of the cheapies I've seen on Epi's in the past, and it's wired for push/pull coil split on the volume knobs. The look is pretty cool (white V with red pickguard and a white painted fretboard, and the neck profile is good for my hand size, so there's a lot to like about it. But for what I paid for it, I think there are higher quality guitars that don't have out-of-the-box QC problems, Schecter and Charvel being a few I have personal experience with. Out of the box, this one had these significant fret issues, the input jack wouldn't take a cable without really pressing hard (I fixed that), the pickguard didn't sit flat on the body under the bridge as it sat partially over the bridge inserts, & one of the pickup height screws was cross-threaded.
like u I can do a lot of my own stuff but fretwork is still outside my capability so unseated frets would be way beyond something I would try to resolve myself - I'm near the store though, so just have to ensure I can give it a good look over at pickup time and not accept it if problems (I'm lefty so never get to see the guitar before ordering) - one of the best skills I have picked up (am picking up) is how to look over a guitar - unseated frets is now on my checklist.
 
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This is the file I use. It has diamonds in it and does a great job. I bought it years ago and can’t remember what I paid for it, but It wasn’t overly expensive. I also have a set of fret guards to protect the fret board when I’m filing/polishing. After I file the frets, usually to get rid of any indentations left by the strings, I use some #0000 steel wool to polish them.

View attachment 100671
for the most part my advice, afa this thread goes, would be spend the money... buy the stew mac. Once you've done fretwork your going to do it on every guitar you have so no sense in not.

There are a lot of tools you can go inexpensive on but crown file ime is not one of them.

the tool above is about the best exception to that rule. I have one of these too and it has faired well... but getting old now. have looked for them again online and have not found. the coating isn't quite as durable as the stew mac... but I paid $20 for mine and it's at least as good as if not better than all the other cheap options I've used (baroque, guiran, philli ergo, etc). it is a cut above for me because it's very ergonomic and my hands get fatigued very fast doing crown work. it also has a very safe design afa potentially hitting the fretboard or the guitar finish.

the stew i have is the one that sort of looks like a screwdriver with a bent arm. two dif grits. I've done probably 20 guitars with it and it works like new. has safety edges and is very ergonomic for me.

I like to use cheapies for the initial grunt work to keep my stew mac fresh so no harm in them. that said having the stew for those last few strokes is key. it is also nice to be able to go from 150 to 300 to make the finishing work a lot faster.

philli luthier ergonomic one has a good coating but I just find it uncomfortable to use. ymmv.

hope something there is useful.
 
for the most part my advice, afa this thread goes, would be spend the money... buy the stew mac. Once you've done fretwork your going to do it on every guitar you have so no sense in not.

There are a lot of tools you can go inexpensive on but crown file ime is not one of them.

the tool above is about the best exception to that rule. I have one of these too and it has faired well... but getting old now. have looked for them again online and have not found. the coating isn't quite as durable as the stew mac... but I paid $20 for mine and it's at least as good as if not better than all the other cheap options I've used (baroque, guiran, philli ergo, etc). it is a cut above for me because it's very ergonomic and my hands get fatigued very fast doing crown work. it also has a very safe design afa potentially hitting the fretboard or the guitar finish.

the stew i have is the one that sort of looks like a screwdriver with a bent arm. two dif grits. I've done probably 20 guitars with it and it works like new. has safety edges and is very ergonomic for me.

I like to use cheapies for the initial grunt work to keep my stew mac fresh so no harm in them. that said having the stew for those last few strokes is key. it is also nice to be able to go from 150 to 300 to make the finishing work a lot faster.

philli luthier ergonomic one has a good coating but I just find it uncomfortable to use. ymmv.

hope something there is useful.
Just learn how to use a triangle safe edge file. It does any fret size and teaches you the process. The number of times I see frets damaged by the use of the wrong size crowning file or just the miss use would surprise you.
 
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