Floydrose Flutter

CHSTD

CHSTD

Inspired
Hi, i wonder if anyone know the about the factors that affect the flutter length.

I have 2 different guitars, both are with me for 6 months..They have both original floydrose, but one of them fluttering really short(maybe half a second).

I use same string gauges, same tuning, both guitars has 3 springs(straight) and just replaced the springs with brand new ones yesterday to see if it affects fluttering length but the result is the same...

Is there anything that affects the fluttering, any suggestions where to look at?

Thanks,
 
Maybe the friction point where the knife edge and post contact each other?

All my guitars have Ibanez Edge trems and I never noticed much difference, but never really compared either.

I suppose the sustain of the guitar or pickups could also be a factor... Or the resonance of the body/neck wood?


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unix-guy said:
Maybe the friction point where the knife edge and post contact each other?
Click to expand...

When the guitar is not plugged, the movement of the bridge is also too short..I think i should check the knife edges, but if that's the reason, i think i can't do anything...
 
Try adjusting the angle of the trem base plate when it is at rest. I've found trems usually flutter the best when they are parallel to the body and perpendicular to the bridge posts. Adjust the base plate angle using the rear claw screws and retuning (pain in the ass) until you find the sweet spot.
 
A few things come to mind: 1) the scale length of the guitar. 2) string gauge and tension 3) spring tension, gauge and material... bearing in mind the interaction of the three but more particularly the string gauge, tension along with the spring tension, gauge and material.
 
Everything is the same, also the springs were the same but, i change them to see if it will fix the problem..But nothing...

Is it possible to reduce friction by applying a little oil to knife edges? The blackchrome finish of the floydrose seems to have more friction than the chrome one(the other bridge's finish)...
 
CHSTD said:
Everything is the same, also the springs were the same but, i change them to see if it will fix the problem..But nothing...

Is it possible to reduce friction by applying a little oil to knife edges? The blackchrome finish of the floydrose seems to have more friction than the chrome one(the other bridge's finish)...
Click to expand...

I would try powdered graphite... Oil or grease will get sticky


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is the flutter after bar use or all the time wile playing? some times the angle of the string coming out of the saddle(if the string was not centered when the string block was tightend) will effect the way the strings vibrate. If the flutering is after bar use maybe 1 guitar has stiffer springs then the other. I have a lot of floyed guitars and never lubed the pivot. but the pivot must be sharp and must be level preferably with strings down neck not body. do not ever adjust floyed hight with tight strings it kills the knife edge.
 
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i think it has to do with where the strings contact the bridge at that location. i have some guitars that do it and some that do it crazy good...all things being equal, height etc.. I have one guitar that does it alot better and the intonation screws are one row back, second row and it will flutter like mad.
 
One more for your check off list:

Try swapping springs the the other guitars - see if the flutter reactions goes with the springs to the other guitars.
 
swass said:
A few things come to mind: 1) the scale length of the guitar. 2) string gauge and tension 3) spring tension, gauge and material... bearing in mind the interaction of the three but more particularly the string gauge, tension along with the spring tension, gauge and material.
Click to expand...

I would also add Mass to this equation, a larger block will add mass adding to the length of the flutter.
 
I guess I missunderstod. If you want more flutter you need longer spring length less spring tension. try 2 springs. the stiffer the springs faster it settles. good for playing around but bad for intonation when palm muting or hard picking. effects doing string bends also.yes big brass block helps darkens the tone and increases sustain.
 
Mass and friction, all other things being equal for all intents and purposes, are the only things that I can think of that would make a difference.
 
paranoid said:
to not ever adjust floyed hight with tight strings it kills the knife edge.
Click to expand...

This! Turning the posts under tension is a sure fire way to end up with flat spots on the knife edges, which will kill the balance and feel of the trem. Always loosen the strings completely when adjusting the stud heights. It's a huge pain in the ass but is completely necessary. This is true for any two post, knife edge style tremolo, Fender American Standard trem, Wilkinson 2 post trem, etc.
 
The only other thing i don't see mentioned here is possible play with the trem bar inside the bridge.
I have had issues before with that and ensuring that the bar was not moving inside the bridge when inserted helped the 'flutter' transfer from the bar to the bridge.
 
I remove the bridge and apply oil the edges and studs (can't find chapstick yet), but it affect a little.. I think the problem is friction..The finish of the floydrose is not right for knife edges and studs i think. I will search for the chapstick i think it will totally solve the problem...

Thanks a lot everyone.
 
CHSTD said:
I remove the bridge and apply oil the edges and studs (can't find chapstick yet), but it affect a little.. I think the problem is friction..The finish of the floydrose is not right for knife edges and studs i think. I will search for the chapstick i think it will totally solve the problem...

Thanks a lot everyone.
Click to expand...

I searched on the chapstick thing and apparently any grease with PTFE is good... Same thing in both...


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