FCB1010

I just bought used FCB1010 with unO 1.0.3. I couldnt get it work so I tried to initialize stompbox mode putting 1 and 10 down and powering it but it dont countdown from 9 to 0. I opened it and check that there really is uno chip. Whats wrong?
 
I'm not sure how you guys do it but, I think I got everything to work like I want it to but I'm not sure if it's the most efficient. Bank 08 gets me to 80 and bank 07 to 70 and etc. 1,2,3,4,5,6,7 gets me from 80 to 86. Button 8 is tap tempo and button 9 is delay off and tuner is 10. I use expression pedal B for volume and pedal A is for Wah, but I don't really use Wah much. Do you guys do it differently ?
 
we have just bought fcb1010 with uno chip, we are using it with Mainstage connected through a saffire 6 interface, midi trigger is a xylo synth, i have set midi merge function and connected cables ok, but i cant seem to get the system to work correctly, ie - play the xylo synth and get any responce from main stage, i havent even touch fcb 1010 (apart from midi merge and i think setting channel - very confusing), i have downloaded midi monitor, when i dont conect through fcb 1010 and check midi monitor i can see all note on/off chanel 10 and what note is being played. when i connect through fcb1010 its like it all gone in a different language, mainley see "reset", i sometimes get channel 10 note on, with random notes (not the actual note being played), ive downloaded veriuos softwere apllications (IFCB) to try and programe but they dont seem to even want to talk to fcb1010, but then i figured they would be no good if we cant get any notes out of original set up,, what we would like to end up with ism being able to use the pedal to change - song up and down, patch up and down, master volume and pitch bend (for timp glis) and poss trigger the odd sound effect or to, mainley in theater pit orchestra's,,, if any one has any suggestions that would be very helpful, i feel im starting to loose my mind with it,, im new to MAC but getting my head round it and main stage slowly,, thanks
 
symphx said:
fcb eureka, getting hiccup latency when switching presets, anybody else?
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Is there two-way communication involved?
I noticed something similar with my Gordius. Even with "send sysex" (or whatever it's called on the Axe-Fx) set to 'none' (I need 'tuner', though) the Axe-Fx always "reports" back when a patch change happens. I haven't look into it so far, perhaps I can block that at the Gordius side, but it annoys me a bit; there's NO way to disable that although it's unneccessary if you don't use the FAS MFC or Axe-Edit. And even then it should be selectable. At first I thought it was selectable ("TotalSync" on/off) but there's no such setting in the Axe-Fx.
 
Just wanted to make a post to make sure I've got all the right stuff I'll need:

Just picked up a FCB1010 off ebay, says it comes with the Uno EProm. I haven't received it yet, but just snagged a 10 foot 5 pin midi cable, and a 15 foot USB cable. I plan to use the midi cable to connect the FCB1010 to the Axe Fx 2, and using the USB cable for connecting to my laptop for updates, and axe edit (when it's finally available.)

1) I've not had the chance to use Axe Edit, as I just got my AFX a week ago. Will I be able to use axe edit via usb like I plan?
2) Programming the FCB - does this mean I need to disconnect the midi cable from the AFX and connect it to my computer every time I want to edit or program the controller?
3) Any ideas for a more clever setup, that would involve less plugging/unplugging to edit everything? I'd prefer a way where I could program axe edit and the FCB simultaneously without having to move plugs around.
4) Which editor do I want? I noticed there's at least 3 different ones mentioned in this thread.


Further details: My main DAW has midi in/out connections as well. I plan to use the laptop to control axe edit, but the programming of the FCB will likely take place via the main computer.
 
Hi,
I spent 5 hours yesterday trying to work this out.
Finally I emailed Dave from Eureka prom.
The answer is no, not yet.
But hopefully he will make it happen for EurekaProm 2.
So fingers crossed !
 
ArrowHead said:
Just wanted to make a post to make sure I've got all the right stuff I'll need:

Just picked up a FCB1010 off ebay, says it comes with the Uno EProm. I haven't received it yet, but just snagged a 10 foot 5 pin midi cable, and a 15 foot USB cable. I plan to use the midi cable to connect the FCB1010 to the Axe Fx 2, and using the USB cable for connecting to my laptop for updates, and axe edit (when it's finally available.)

1) I've not had the chance to use Axe Edit, as I just got my AFX a week ago. Will I be able to use axe edit via usb like I plan?
2) Programming the FCB - does this mean I need to disconnect the midi cable from the AFX and connect it to my computer every time I want to edit or program the controller?
3) Any ideas for a more clever setup, that would involve less plugging/unplugging to edit everything? I'd prefer a way where I could program axe edit and the FCB simultaneously without having to move plugs around.
4) Which editor do I want? I noticed there's at least 3 different ones mentioned in this thread.


Further details: My main DAW has midi in/out connections as well. I plan to use the laptop to control axe edit, but the programming of the FCB will likely take place via the main computer.
Click to expand...

1- Axe Edit is having issues with the current firmware, but Fractal is working hard to get a new version out ASAP. As it is now, it is very prone to mess up presets. We all feel the pain on that one. When the new version comes out it will work via USB as it did before.
2- No, since you edit the Axe-Fx through USB there is no need to connect it to the PC via midi.
3- Simply run a cable from the PC out to FCB in, a cable from the FCB out to the Axe-FX in. You can send edits from your PC into FCB, the FCB can control the Axe so you can see what it does, the Axe sends everything to Axe-Edit through USB (see 1). Only when you need to load stuff from your FCB to your PC (current programming, loop check, or see what it's sending in the midi watch window) you need to unplug the FCB out's cable from the Axe-Fx and connect it to the PC in. But that doesn't happen much, you're mostly sending stuff from the editor to the FCB. Just also save the editor to a file every time you send it to the FCB and you'll always be in sync. Unless you go programming on the FCB itself, but that's a b., so won't happen much.
4- I like Ripwerx. Once you get to grips with the terminology, having it all in one window is great. The other editors work per preset, which may appeal more to the visually oriented. Which I am too, but still prefer Ripwerx.


Oh, and get yourself a couple of spare midi cables. You won't believe how many hairs were ripped from skulls trying to find out what's wrong when it was the cable. The 5-pins are really cheap.
 
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Thanks Dutch. I consulted your post quite a few times when setting things up. Everything worked like a charm, and was actually a lot easier than I expected.

I got things set up the way I wanted, with Comp, Drive, Mod, Delay, Reverb across the top row and presets on the bottom. Got all the lights working in sync with Axe Fx. All stomps are global with the exception of Mod which is set per patch to anything from rotary to phaser, etc...

Set my wah to autoengage, and made a few adjustments to the curve and range of the control to get a longer and more vocal sound. I'm thrilled with the sound of it now. Also set my other pedal to control input volume, allowing for cleaning up an amp without needing a volume knob. (Being a lefty, we often don't get that option as many guitars don't use reverse-taper audio pots. It's nothing but an on off switch).

In addition set up every fifth bank to control presets, with the 5 bottom pedals going to tuner and scenes 2-5. This way I'm never more than 2 taps away from scene selection, no matter what bank I'm on.

In addition, after searching the forum a bit I stole another user's custom label images and re-colored and labeled them to match axe-edit's colors as best I could. (never actually used edit, so I looked up photos on google).

20121111_145341.jpg
 
ArrowHead said:
Thanks Dutch. I consulted your post quite a few times when setting things up. Everything worked like a charm, and was actually a lot easier than I expected.

I got things set up the way I wanted, with Comp, Drive, Mod, Delay, Reverb across the top row and presets on the bottom. Got all the lights working in sync with Axe Fx. All stomps are global with the exception of Mod which is set per patch to anything from rotary to phaser, etc...

Set my wah to autoengage, and made a few adjustments to the curve and range of the control to get a longer and more vocal sound. I'm thrilled with the sound of it now. Also set my other pedal to control input volume, allowing for cleaning up an amp without needing a volume knob. (Being a lefty, we often don't get that option as many guitars don't use reverse-taper audio pots. It's nothing but an on off switch).

In addition set up every fifth bank to control presets, with the 5 bottom pedals going to tuner and scenes 2-5. This way I'm never more than 2 taps away from scene selection, no matter what bank I'm on.

In addition, after searching the forum a bit I stole another user's custom label images and re-colored and labeled them to match axe-edit's colors as best I could. (never actually used edit, so I looked up photos on google).

20121111_145341.jpg
Click to expand...

Hey, great job.
Love the coloured labels.
where exactly did you say you got the labels?
 
Thanks for all who help miditards like me make sense of this midi business. Thanks to this thread, I've programmed the FCB1010 (with Uno) just the way I wanted it. Two thumbs up.
 
I was looking at the Voes' phantom power mod, and was wondering: would it be possible to simple skip the bridge rectifiers and disconnect the original power supply entirely? I can't really see myself using it.

That is, connect the midi pins carrying the power from my 9v supply directly to the motherboard? Would this be risky?

Thanks!
 
Hello out there, Bought a FCB1010 to control my Behringer GMX212. Upgraded the chip from the 1.0.2.f to the 1.0.3 When you do this, you have to "Initialize" the system by turning the FCB on, wait until you get the "00" on the display, then turn it off. Then hold the #1 and #9 switches down, while you turn it back on. When the display goes black (blank), let go of the switches. the display should then count down from 9 to 0. After that, your good to go. If it still doesn't work, make sure the notch on one end of the chip is aligned with the notch on the chip's socket. I think the notch goes toward the big capacitor, but I won't swear to it. These things are directional, so you should check the direction of the original chip, before you pull it out. You may have bent one of the pins over on installation. It's not hard to do, but it is hard to see without pulling it back out. Straighten pin carefully, they break easy. Another thing, the cheap usb/midi interface cables you find on eBay for $5-$10 bucks don't work. Been there, Done that! I won a bid on a M-audio Midisport 2x2 for $41.00.Works great. Handles the Sysex files no problem. Merges and all that, with out/thru, so it can control a second midi device. They also make a 4x4, if you need to go beyond 2. Or, you can buy a 1x1 mini interface @ Guitar Center for $50. Or, you can buy a mini on eBay, like an M-audio "uno" or an E-mu 1x1, for $20-$30. They both work, but you can only relate to one device (amp). Enough said.....Good Luck DBRUCE
 
quick question - i have read some of this thread but to recap exactly how many midi cables fo i need for this unit to work with the axe fx 2 so that i can also programe the unit with the software rather than manually programe it
 
You'll most likely need 2 when you're programming via PC - you'll only need 1 to control the Axe-Fx.

I say "mostly likely" need 2 because generally speaking that's the way it's done. An editor may allow a DL to the FCB with just the one cable. (it's been a while but I think I used to do this with Ripwerx)
 
Hello all.
I would first like to thank Voes for the extensive write-ups and instructions here and on his site, as well as the many people offering assistance on the forum. Programming this stuff takes a lot of time and effort, and supporting others in getting things set up takes a lot of back-and-forth and repetition of tips and advice. Thanks for all the support and patience!


I've made some progress with my FCB1010, but I'm still having some issues. I have the Uno chip, latest firmware (v.1.0.3, and as Voes mentioned in the FAQ on his site, it shows up as v.1.0.2.g in Ripwerx), and my USB-MIDI interface is an E-MU Xmidi 1x1. I've tried Windows 7 64-bit as well as Windows Vista, and I'm controlling an Axe-FX Ultra. I've had mixed results using Ripwerx and the PC Editor for FCB1010.

I've followed the instructions in the "getting started guide" from Voes several times, making sure to initialize the extended memory, set to stompbox mode, and enable sysex receive.

I'm having some issues similar to JJunkie, who posted in one of the first few pages of this thread.
JJunkie said:
I have programmed the FCB using ripwerx though every time i dump the patches to the FCB, the FCB LCD display goes blank and the unit wont respond to anything (i.e. pressing pedals, etc - seems to switch off). Is that normal? The software will display a popup message along the lines of "2275 butes dumped / sent" which I take as being a "successful dump".
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This is happening to me as well; I've tried waiting up to 5 minutes, but the FCB never comes to life after this point. I have to turn the FCB off and then on again in order to fiddle around again. I also get the “____ bytes sent” message.



Another poster said:
DBRUCE said:
you have to "Initialize" the system by turning the FCB on, wait until you get the "00" on the display, then turn it off. Then hold the #1 and #9 switches down, while you turn it back on. When the display goes black (blank), let go of the switches. the display should then count down from 9 to 0. After that, your good to go. If it still doesn't work, make sure the notch on one end of the chip is aligned with the notch on the chip's socket. I think the notch goes toward the big capacitor, but I won't swear to it. These things are directional, so you should check the direction of the original chip, before you pull it out. You may have bent one of the pins over on installation. It's not hard to do, but it is hard to see without pulling it back out. Straighten pin carefully, they break easy.
Click to expand...

When I go through the step that involves holding down 1 and 9 while powering up, the display counts down as expected. When I do the next step involving 1 and 10, the FCB never counts down; if I recall correctly it goes blank indefinitely until I press UP, then returns to displaying "00". I was very careful when installing the Uno chip, and I opened the up the FCB again after reading the above suggestion, but the chip is oriented correctly and close inspection of the pins indicates that nothing was broken or bent during installation.

The procedure to enable sysex receive seems to work fine, and if I go into the global config menu at a later time, LED 7 is still lit.

I've tried sending the sample Ripwerx sysex file that Voes had posted somewhere, but after doing this (and after the FCB shuts down as described above), when I "get patch dump" in Ripwerx, everything is clearly messed up, with crazy numbers everywhere they shouldn't be. A similar thing happens with the PC Editor, but I actually had the most success to date by sending my desired sysex using that program. Even though the "receive patch dump" command returns a mixed-up layout with crazy PC and CC numbers and messed-up global options, when I connect the FCB to the Ultra, it partially works.


Here are some descriptions of what else is going on:

- The upper row of switches is set as stompboxes, and these are sending the proper CCs and turning on/off the appropriate effects, However, the LEDs don't match the starting bypass states of the effects, and in order to change the state of any effect I have to press the switch twice. JJunkie mentioned this as well:
JJunkie said:
In the Axe I/O Control configuration page, I have assigned the effect bypasses I want to control with stompboxes 6-10 and these work fine.

However:

1) For each patch I have assigned initial On/Off settings in the "stomps" column in Ripwerx. I save my Axe-fx settings to reflect this. When I switch to a patch I would expect that the stomp pedal LEDs will light up / blink out in accord with my programming.
This doesnt happen. As an example, I may be playing on a patch with chorus and drive engaged. I then switch to a patch that I programmed to have only chorus engaged initially but no drive. I still get the sound (i.e. only choris is engaged) but both stomp LEDs (chorus AND drive) are lit. If I want to engage drive in the patch I have to press the drive stomp twice (first to turn off the LED, second to turn back on).
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- The expression pedals have been calibrated and programmed and are sometimes functioning now, but not consistently. Sometimes when I press "1" to go to the first preset, it comes up with both expression pedal LEDs on (as desired), and delay engaged as well (not desired). If I turn off the delay with its stomp switch, the expression LEDs also go out and I have no control over their functions. Sometimes when I press "1" again (which ideally would only send a "64" CC for tap tempo), the delay stays off but now the expression pedals/LEDs function again. This doesn't happen every time though.




It seems that I have a MIDI problem of some sort, but I’m not sure what to focus on first. Could my USB-MIDI interface be to blame (E-MU Xmidi 1x1)? Ripwerx does read the correct Uno firmware version from the FCB.


Does the blanking display during sysex receive indicate a problem with the FCB itself, or with the Uno chip?



Thanks again to Voes and to the many others who continue to provide assistance!

-Alex
 
Alex C said:
- The upper row of switches is set as stompboxes, and these are sending the proper CCs and turning on/off the appropriate effects, However, the LEDs don't match the starting bypass states of the effects, and in order to change the state of any effect I have to press the switch twice.
Click to expand...

A common mis-conception with the FCB. The FCB is a generalized MIDI controller and therefore doesn't have the "talkative" nature of something like a liquid foot controller or FASs own MFC-101 which have been specially programmed to communicate with the Axe-Fx. i.e. there's nothing in the FCB listening to the Axe-Fx that will "see" the current state of effects for a given preset. You need to program the FCB to set the desired state of the stomps so the led will match the presets setting.



Alex C said:
It seems that I have a MIDI problem of some sort, but I’m not sure what to focus on first. Could my USB-MIDI interface be to blame (E-MU Xmidi 1x1)? Ripwerx does read the correct Uno firmware version from the FCB.


Does the blanking display during sysex receive indicate a problem with the FCB itself, or with the Uno chip?
Click to expand...

Hard to say for sure but my guess (and it truly is just a guess) is that the majority of your issues are MIDI interface related. There are a couple of FCB1010 yahoo groups and the FCB1010_uno group has a database of known working MIDI interfaces. I don't seem to see the one you stated being listed. :-(
Yahoo! Groups
 
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