FAS Class A - Parameter Adjustment

please, i get it...the amp block is tweaked well.
i am just trying to learn the tweak process myself...jeepers...
 
I will say I just figured out the difference between the null versus none mic type.
By default, the axe selects none for the mic type, but the null sounded much better to my ears.
I think this is because selecting null enables the proximity knobs.
...decreasing the proximity knob simulates the mic being pulled away from the speaker.
...it sounds better! :) ...and now i know.... :)
Yep... It's in the manual.
 
from yek....
FAS CLASS-A
: added in firmware 12. Another amp model that was born by accident.

“A “Blackface” preamp into a cathode-biased 6L6 power amp with no negative feedback. This was a happy accident when originally modeling the Carr Rambler in the beta version of this release. Several mistakes were made in the model prior to MIMIC’ing the amp but the model was so well liked that we decided to make it into its own custom amp model."
So my memory was partly right ;)

So it totally makes sense why it achieves a good pushed Fender sound.
 
..and having coarsed through 200 amp models he was impressed by the transparency
No negative feedback...great for audio transparency by definition...
Yeah, this amp is not far from the tube pre...methinks...and no noise! :)
 
Yep... It's in the manual.
I know it is in the manual...but there are scores of folks here who may have mastered elements of its control...so again I am asking for "with all these knobs which ones are YOUR goto adjustments when tweaking"...then with that knowledge start learning those adjustments first.
 
I know it is in the manual...
I was talking specifically about the null mic.

so again I am asking for "with all these knobs which ones are YOUR goto adjustments when tweaking"...
That should have been the title of your thread! Instead, your thread title and first post is focused on a specific amp model.

You'll find that asking specific and detailed questions will get the best results.
 
respective of the thread's title it is perfectly clear...but look i'm not looking for a snark fest so sorry if any posts came off poorly...

so...of the multiple posts so far other than yek say "turn down the bass"...only simeon offered up his approach...thank you sir!
simeon: master volume,input trim,sag,negative feedback,transformer match
 
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respective of the thread's title it is perfectly clear...but look i'm not looking for a snark fest so sorry if any posts came off poorly...

so...of the multiple posts so far other than yek say "turn down the bass"...only simeon offered up his approach...thank you sir!
simeon: master volume,input trim,sag,negative feedback,transformer match

Thanks for pointing out how everyone except Simeon has failed you.... I'm sure it will surely motivate everyone to contribute a few pages worth of help
 
Amp setups are so much a personal thing. There is no right and wrong in their setups. If you're gonna start with a FAS model, like any other, just start with your tone controls, MV/ Output volume. That's a lot right there to adjust tones.

The rest of the settings are a bit more subtle on their own, but combinations of those "subtle" adjustments go to make some very vast differences in the overall tone.

And by the way lqdsnddist, FWIW...I happen to own a White/ Blue 2005 Ford GT (no shit)...and it comes in from factory at 550 crank HP (very low rating - actually more like 620). It wasn't fast enough for me, so I changed the blower to a 4.5 liter Whipple running at 23 PSI to get to 1050 crank HP. Now it's fast, not as fast off the line as my AWD 991 TTS, but much faster at speeds!! LOL

Fast is a matter of opinion...and opinions are like assholes, everybody has one - :)
 
Thanks for pointing out how everyone except Simeon has failed you.... I'm sure it will surely motivate everyone to contribute a few pages worth of help
i didn't mean it in a bad way sir...and I have tried to thank all for their opinions...
 
from yek....
FAS CLASS-A
: added in firmware 12. Another amp model that was born by accident.

“A “Blackface” preamp into a cathode-biased 6L6 power amp with no negative feedback. This was a happy accident when originally modeling the Carr Rambler in the beta version of this release. Several mistakes were made in the model prior to MIMIC’ing the amp but the model was so well liked that we decided to make it into its own custom amp model."
Well now I am confused...the default tube in this preset is = EL84/68QS
I thought it was a 6L6 power amp....
 
is this because the tube it is hard coded in this amp and cannot be edited? i don't hear a difference changing tubes...
should the
 
respective of the thread's title it is perfectly clear...but look i'm not looking for a snark fest so sorry if any posts came off poorly...

so...of the multiple posts so far other than yek say "turn down the bass"...only simeon offered up his approach...thank you sir!
simeon: master volume,input trim,sag,negative feedback,transformer match
Not trying to argue with you, just trying to give constructive advice on how to get what you want. Your thread title and first post say one thing, your other posts say something different.

Here is your first post and second post:

Trying to develop a logical approach to parameter adjustment...

First, which parameters would you folks check/adjust, to ensure the amp is clean, accurate and fast?

Thanks, fellas...appreciate it!
Okay, put another way:
When you look at the parameters, which ones do you make dam sure are set up a certain way?
I know enough to set up the normal amp settings...it's the "under the hood" guys.
It's peculiar in that most folks ask how do I get it spongy...or get it to bloom...or what's the magic sauce?
I wish to be more adept at these finer adjustments and become proficient in their application for all amp models.
...but slowly...and methodically... :)

Those are not asking the same thing to my eyes.

I think @SteveW has given a solid answer.

For me, I find almost no need to adjust beyond the Basic tab in Axe Edit. I do set Low Res Freq for my presets to match the correct value for the IR I use in my presets, and lately I've been feeling out the Motor Drive and Speaker Drive settings. But there are no hard and fast rules.
 
So right now you are focusing on getting the parameters associated with speaker interaction. That makes sense what with the latest changes.
I've read through the quick reference guide and it's starting to make sense. ...again, thank you...
 
With that model, I almost always end up hitting the Cut switch- for some reason, I've found it a little boomy, and I prefer a tighter bass response- this might also help it feel a little faster. The other parameter that I'll go to if I'm trying to fuss with an amp is the transformer match- you can clear or dirty up an amp, and a small adjustment can make a big difference. Going into positive values will help clean up and stiffen an amp. You may or may not like that change, but I've found it useful in the past. The other approach to dialing in an amp is one that was posted on this forum at one point, but I can't remember for the life of me who posted it. The basic idea was to adjust your TMB by playing octaves on an E major chord- hit the bottom E, the 3rd string 2nd fret E, and the 6th string E- and adjust TMB so that you can hear all three clearly, and none of them are overwhelming. It's just one way- and it's not perfect, but it's a starting point at least if you have no other method.
 
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<OT>

FWIW...I happen to own a White/ Blue 2005 Ford GT (no shit)...and it comes in from factory at 550 crank HP (very low rating - actually more like 620). It wasn't fast enough for me, so I changed the blower to a 4.5 liter Whipple running at 23 PSI to get to 1050 crank HP. Now it's fast, not as fast off the line as my AWD 991 TTS, but much faster at speeds!

Have you tried the Texas Mile with your Ford GT? 23#s is pretty good (no methanol I assume). I run 1.3 bar which I think is little under that, but with far less cubic inches ... for which there is just no substitute. Color me jealous! :D

</OT>

There are a myriad of "advanced" params - of which none are "magic". If they were, it's all you'd read about. Many are nuanced, many are not. Some dramatic changes can be made in some areas taken to extremes which can be seen in some of @Danny Danzi videos.

The best method is to try them yourself by "sweeping" any given param from low to high/ full range and see what it does for you.

Beyond BMTBPD and MV and Input Drive, there are a few I do "go to" like Xformer Match and perhaps a controller (scene or CC/Pedal) on Input Trim. Some people, use things like Preamp hardness, crunch, harmonics, Low Res Freq., the GEQ, the preamp options, the power section (neg feedback, B+ time, variac, etc., the speaker tab options and the dynamics page options (dynamic pres, dynamic depth, character, compression, xformer match, xf drive etc.) Since you mentioned it earlier, Cliff wrote a section (tech notes) on power tubes and tone which might be of interest for you, but not sure what you are trying to achieve. We're just throwing darts at an unknown objective.

If "clean - Clean" is it - you can achieve that with gain reduction and a low gain amp, (Input trim at 0.5 and low Input drive) or keep your volume knob down on your guitar, etc. Some models are much more suited to this as you've already discovered. Lastly, most users have commented that with Q7.02 not much fiddling is really required as all the amps have been remeasured and new values adjusted by FAS to be as close to the amps they model.

Many things affect tone, compression, eq, gain, and responsiveness. Which are you going for? What is "missing" for you? An example would really help us help you. This has been asked many times and yet not answered - a sound clip or video link of a tune with a time stamp is often used to highlight a tone objective.
 
I have read that thread already. Note that he is talking about a "pushed Fender" sound. That sound is very far from "clean" :)

Yep, very far from clean. Clean with a very light touch, early breakup as soon as you dig in, and quite distorted when playing hard. Like Adman103, I also engage the Cut switch and use the amp GEQ pre power amp to cut a bit of 125 Hz. And this is with a single coil neck pickup.
 
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