EV1 Modded for double functionality

Just stumbled on this, and I've got an EV1 collecting dust. Marco....any details (part's, process, do's-don'ts) you can share? Thanks in advance...
 
I did this the other day. I had a few questions and Marco was kind enough to answer. So here is my feedback on the process.

1. Switch is something like this (Latching):
JIUWU Electric Guitar 3PDT... Amazon product ASIN B00RGKFKPC
One advantage of using this type instead of momentary is that you can also add an LED to indicate the state of the switch. I plan on doing this and putting the led on my board.

2. I found on another EV mod thread that these work well for both removing the switch to metal contact to add resistance for pushing the switch down.
Jim Dunlop ECB124 3 x 4 mm... Amazon product ASIN B005GWKPWU
I used a medium sized one in the top part of the pedal (there is already a spot for one to go). And used glue dots for adhesive. I used two of the longer ones on the bottom part of the pedal to add resistance. Otherwise pushing the switch down is way to easy. Again, attached with glue dots. We'll see how long they hold for.

3. For the switch to fit, you have to cut the corner of the existing circuit board off. You can see this in Marco's pick, its the spot next to the red line on the ribbon cable. Mine doesn't look as clean. I was lazy and used the wrong tool for the job.

4. To re-use the volume IN jack, you have to cut the traces on the circuit board so avoid it affecting anything else. I have a drill I made for PCB board drilling and used that to drill the traces and break the connections.

5. Careful if soldering wires to the switch after its mounted. I nicked the side of the ribbon cable and melted it a bit. But, that appears to go to the traces that I just removed for volume IN.

6. The pedal will need to be recalibrated since it has smaller travel now.

7. I don't have a pic of this, but I tried to put tape/paper/etc... all around the inside of the pedal so when I drilled the hole, metal shards didn't end up all over and get stuck in gears or anything like that. I didn't want to remove all of the insides to do this. So, that worked well. Also, there is already a spot for where to drill the hole when looking at it from the inside. So that removes the guess work out of lining anything up!



What I wanted to do is use my EV-1 as a standard volume pedal, but be able to kick on the WAH also via the switch. I have it setup so the switch handles the WAH block bypass state and also the VOL block bypass state (opposite). Engaging the switch turns on WAH and VOL off. Just finished this the other day so still exploring the best way to go about setting it up and using it. I have another EV-1, not sure if I will mod that or not. Giving this a good run first.

Here are some of my pics...

You can see my hack job of cutting the board. And the holes drilled through the two traces. The switch contacts to the left of the T/R/S label I added are the ones to attach wires to. The other ones lift up and break contact when jack is plugged in.
298C2D1D-411F-4F57-8350-BB6D4F70F646.jpeg

And after I was finshed, I realized, I had black for Ring and Blue for sleeve. I meant to reverse those, oh well...
7F555949-29AA-48A5-85F6-BE2ED92B8385.jpeg

Here the board is mounted back in, switch wired up, and you can see how the corner of the switch now clears the circuit board where the chunk was cut out. And some char marks on the ribbon cable :(
4FDF4AE3-E42F-4A21-AAED-D9230951FE16.jpeg

Here are two of the rubber things added to make pressing down the pedal harder, and also allow it to return back up on it's own after pressing it down. Pedal has two cables plugged in now, expression pedal cable, and then Volume IN.
180B0D4A-B660-4B9E-A6A4-8FD2FFAD4AE2.jpeg


Hard to see, but one of the medium sized (I think) rubber things stuck in the top part so the switch isn't clanking against medal.
D8C3AB84-FC15-4569-8B51-492CD5BA441E.jpeg

Glue dots. These are working great so far. A tad bigger than the rubber pieces, but, this is all I had. Maybe you can buy them in the next size down.
9F800D29-F0B7-4E4E-8589-513119B023F2.jpeg
 
I did this the other day. I had a few questions and Marco was kind enough to answer. So here is my feedback on the process.

1. Switch is something like this (Latching):
JIUWU Electric Guitar 3PDT... Amazon product ASIN B00RGKFKPC
One advantage of using this type instead of momentary is that you can also add an LED to indicate the state of the switch. I plan on doing this and putting the led on my board.

2. I found on another EV mod thread that these work well for both removing the switch to metal contact to add resistance for pushing the switch down.
Jim Dunlop ECB124 3 x 4 mm... Amazon product ASIN B005GWKPWU
I used a medium sized one in the top part of the pedal (there is already a spot for one to go). And used glue dots for adhesive. I used two of the longer ones on the bottom part of the pedal to add resistance. Otherwise pushing the switch down is way to easy. Again, attached with glue dots. We'll see how long they hold for.

3. For the switch to fit, you have to cut the corner of the existing circuit board off. You can see this in Marco's pick, its the spot next to the red line on the ribbon cable. Mine doesn't look as clean. I was lazy and used the wrong tool for the job.

4. To re-use the volume IN jack, you have to cut the traces on the circuit board so avoid it affecting anything else. I have a drill I made for PCB board drilling and used that to drill the traces and break the connections.

5. Careful if soldering wires to the switch after its mounted. I nicked the side of the ribbon cable and melted it a bit. But, that appears to go to the traces that I just removed for volume IN.

6. The pedal will need to be recalibrated since it has smaller travel now.

7. I don't have a pic of this, but I tried to put tape/paper/etc... all around the inside of the pedal so when I drilled the hole, metal shards didn't end up all over and get stuck in gears or anything like that. I didn't want to remove all of the insides to do this. So, that worked well. Also, there is already a spot for where to drill the hole when looking at it from the inside. So that removes the guess work out of lining anything up!



What I wanted to do is use my EV-1 as a standard volume pedal, but be able to kick on the WAH also via the switch. I have it setup so the switch handles the WAH block bypass state and also the VOL block bypass state (opposite). Engaging the switch turns on WAH and VOL off. Just finished this the other day so still exploring the best way to go about setting it up and using it. I have another EV-1, not sure if I will mod that or not. Giving this a good run first.

Here are some of my pics...

You can see my hack job of cutting the board. And the holes drilled through the two traces. The switch contacts to the left of the T/R/S label I added are the ones to attach wires to. The other ones lift up and break contact when jack is plugged in.
View attachment 59919

And after I was finshed, I realized, I had black for Ring and Blue for sleeve. I meant to reverse those, oh well...
View attachment 59920

Here the board is mounted back in, switch wired up, and you can see how the corner of the switch now clears the circuit board where the chunk was cut out. And some char marks on the ribbon cable :(
View attachment 59921

Here are two of the rubber things added to make pressing down the pedal harder, and also allow it to return back up on it's own after pressing it down. Pedal has two cables plugged in now, expression pedal cable, and then Volume IN.
View attachment 59922


Hard to see, but one of the medium sized (I think) rubber things stuck in the top part so the switch isn't clanking against medal.
View attachment 59923

Glue dots. These are working great so far. A tad bigger than the rubber pieces, but, this is all I had. Maybe you can buy them in the next size down.
View attachment 59924

hi, hello,I read your post about ev-1 expression pedal modification.I want to ask you some questions about modifying the ev-1 expression pedal.

1.Marco Fanton’s ev-1 modification does not seem to be drilled, but you disconnected two traces. Does this make any difference? Must this be done?

2.Regarding the circuit changes, apart from drilling two holes, disconnecting the trace, and connecting the three wires to the 3PDT, are there any other changes to the circuit?
 
Inspired by this post I’d like to convert my Mission EP-1. I ordered a 3pdt switch and an input jack. So the difference with the above is I won’t be using an existing jack but add one (holes are already there in the chassis as it is the same as the SP-1). I’d really appreciate it if someone can point me in the direction of a wiring schematic as to how to connect the 3dpt to the jack, this is all quite new to me (I’ve asked a friend to do the soldering, but he needs to know how to wire it up of course).
Btw - I’ve ordered a 3dpt with integrated LED ring.
 
Inspired by this post I’d like to convert my Mission EP-1. I ordered a 3pdt switch and an input jack. So the difference with the above is I won’t be using an existing jack but add one (holes are already there in the chassis as it is the same as the SP-1). I’d really appreciate it if someone can point me in the direction of a wiring schematic as to how to connect the 3dpt to the jack, this is all quite new to me (I’ve asked a friend to do the soldering, but he needs to know how to wire it up of course).
Btw - I’ve ordered a 3dpt with integrated LED ring.

Check my post out in the MFC sub-forum. I think it's the 3rd one down, can't link direct to it here as my post count is too low. I modded a Nextar pedal for my MFC but it will work the same. It'll use one half of the switch input on the FC or Axe FX for the toggle, and the other one will just supply power for the LED as a status light. I included a diagram for the wiring.
 
Check my post out in the MFC sub-forum. I think it's the 3rd one down, can't link direct to it here as my post count is too low. I modded a Nextar pedal for my MFC but it will work the same. It'll use one half of the switch input on the FC or Axe FX for the toggle, and the other one will just supply power for the LED as a status light. I included a diagram for the wiring.
Is it this one? Is that for a 3pdt switch? Sorry I am really a newbie in this area…
 

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Is it this one? Is that for a 3pdt switch? Sorry I am really a newbie in this area…
Yeah, it should be the same layout as yours. Some of the ones with the built in LED have a single colour and some have a dual colour, if your has the single colour you can pretty much use that diagram as is. If you have the dual colour one, your led ring will have 3 legs, so you'll need to figure out which one is your common leg and which one each colour is and then pick one of the colours to use.
 
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