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EV-1 / Temple Attachment Plate Question

bleujazz3

Inspired
Hi,

Been working on my Temple Audio Duo board builds. Have completed the Duo 17, but need help with the Duo 34. The Duo 34 will house 2 separate EV-1 pedals. When attaching the Temple attachment plates, how does one avoid bumping up again the round-head bottom screws of the EV-1? Is a purchase of comparable metric flat head Philips required?

I thought I'd save myself a lot of grief by buying a roll of adhesive weatherstripping to cushion the board and provide electrical grounding. The weatherstripping proved pointless because while it raised the height of the board, it proved impossible to connect the attachment plate thumbscrews underneath the board.

Back to square one. Could use some assistance with the EV-1 placement and attachment. Thanks for your help in advance.
 

AJ Vargas

Experienced
I think the EV-1 have those removable feet like the Dunlop wahs? If so, many people (myself included) would just remove the feet and screw them from underneath the board, just like the wah. Saves time & money.
 

bleujazz3

Inspired
I think the EV-1 have those removable feet like the Dunlop wahs? If so, many people (myself included) would just remove the feet and screw them from underneath the board, just like the wah. Saves time & money.
Mm-hmm. The rubber feet were removed and the roundhead screws reattached. The results poses a problem for attaching the Temple attachment plates. The round head screws raise the height of the EV-1 off the board, and make installation off the Temple plates difficult, if not possible.

This was why I asked about flat head screws. Would routing the existing screw holes with a countersink might work? Was wondering how others attached theirs to a Duo board?

EDIT: Oh. I hear what you're saying now. Use the round head screws to attach the EV-1s to the board directly instead of using the plates.
 
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AJ Vargas

Experienced
Yeah, with the wahs you can use the same screws (rubber feet included) to attach the pedal directly to the board. Saves you time & money and gives a more solid, sturdy feel when you rock the pedal back and forth.
 
I kind of (well almost), see the point of the mounting plates if you have lots of small pedals that you want to change out regularly, but when using the Temple Board for a modeller, or foot controller and a couple of expression pedals I really don't see the point. I would just get some dual lock; dual lock will probably be thick enough to take the protruding screw heads out of the equation.
 

bleujazz3

Inspired
Yeah, with the wahs you can use the same screws (rubber feet included) to attach the pedal directly to the board. Saves you time & money and gives a more solid, sturdy feel when you rock the pedal back and forth.
The spacing of the screw holes doesn't make it easy to attach all of the screws, just 2 or 3 each pedal. I personally prefer to not drill out any holes in the board to accommodate the EV-1s.

The other upper and lower holes can't have screws attached between EV-1 and board because it prevents attaching the screws that will fit. The middle screws pose no issue.

I'm not particularly zealous about replacing the rubber feet, but have several support brackets that will serve the purpose. Saturday looks good to finish this project. Will be preoccupied with work the remainder of the day.
 
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bleujazz3

Inspired
Have you checked out Zenrig's (Sukh) glow riser? I use them on all my boards.

Mmm? Link? No plans to introduce outboard electronics or a power source to the FC12 board...

I do have plans for some Mooer clear candy toppers (some folks prefer the mushroom). Mushroom makes me feel that's like asking for jock-itch. LOL. ;)
 
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Boogyin1979

Member
I used 20mm, M3.5-0.6 Metric Coarse Thread screws for my FC6, FM3 and EV2s (left feet on but a pain in the rump) on a Temple Duo 34. No problem. Only issue with the Temple is you have to solder your own XLRs to run them under the board connecting FM3 and FC6.
 

Paulg2uk

Power User
Mmm? Link? No plans to introduce outboard electronics or a power source to the FC12 board...

I do have plans for some Mooer clear candy toppers (some folks prefer the mushroom). Mushroom makes me feel that's like asking for jock-itch. LOL. ;)
His site is down for maintenance at the moment but I'm sure it will be back up once all the new goodies have been added to the site. You don't have to use any led's with the glow riser. You can just use it to mount it to the board. Here's a pic from Sukh's FB page. He does make one for the EV-1 too. There's holes cut out where the feet would go. You can just velcro the pedal to the riser and then velcro that to the board.

https://www.zenrigs.com

122103412_2778245802386900_6045188346190673518_n.jpg
 
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dsimms

Inspired
Hi,

Been working on my Temple Audio Duo board builds. Have completed the Duo 17, but need help with the Duo 34. The Duo 34 will house 2 separate EV-1 pedals. When attaching the Temple attachment plates, how does one avoid bumping up again the round-head bottom screws of the EV-1? Is a purchase of comparable metric flat head Philips required?

I thought I'd save myself a lot of grief by buying a roll of adhesive weatherstripping to cushion the board and provide electrical grounding. The weatherstripping proved pointless because while it raised the height of the board, it proved impossible to connect the attachment plate thumbscrews underneath the board.

Back to square one. Could use some assistance with the EV-1 placement and attachment. Thanks for your help in advance.
I won't need to quickly detach my components, so I didn't use Temple's quick releases. I took the rubber feet off everything and used M3.5-.60 16mm screws for everything. Had to use a few washers where it didn't feel like there was enough depth to hold the screw length or where there was a larger hole in the Templeboard. Had to drill some holes larger for alignment (circled in red). Relay G50 wireless mounted underneath with velcro.

temple duo 34-1.jpg

pedalboard underside.jpg
 

Joe Bfstplk

Axe-Master
Have you checked out Zenrig's (Sukh) glow riser? I use them on all my boards.
This ^^^^

Glo Risers are awesome....
0718212309a_HDR.jpg
 

bleujazz3

Inspired
His site is down for maintenance at the moment but I'm sure it will be back up once all the new goodies have been added to the site. You don't have to use any led's with the glow riser. You can just use it to mount it to the board. Here's a pic from Sukh's FB page. He does make one for the EV-1 too. There's holes cut out where the feet would go. You can jus velcro the pedal to the riser and then velcro that to the board.

https://www.zenrigs.com

View attachment 86817

Although it adds some display value, I'm not looking for flash. I like the concept of keeping FM3 feet on the unit, but might be concerned it might raise the footstep height more than I'd prefer. Wasn't planning on velcro, have spent way too much time sticking/peeling that on/off to keep a board neat.

I won't need to quickly detach my components, so I didn't use Temple's quick releases. I took the rubber feet off everything and used M3.5-.60 16mm screws for everything. Had to use a few washers where it didn't feel like there was enough depth to hold the screw length or where there was a larger hole in the Templeboard. Had to drill some holes larger for alignment (circled in red). Relay G50 wireless mounted underneath with velcro.

View attachment 86815

View attachment 86816

I like this as well. Like yours, I was able to reattach 2 or 3 original screws back into the EV-1s. It is a good way of handling the problem, though I think I'll work with the attachment plates for my FC12, and provide images once completed of both boards. I'd prefer to not drill any expansion holes for the EV-1s. I think they'll hold firm with 2 or 3 screws.
 
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bleujazz3

Inspired
I used 20mm, M3.5-0.6 Metric Coarse Thread screws for my FC6, FM3 and EV2s (left feet on but a pain in the rump) on a Temple Duo 34. No problem. Only issue with the Temple is you have to solder your own XLRs to run them under the board connecting FM3 and FC6.

Actually, I used the Temple XLR modules for both the FASlink and speakers outs. Two individual boards housing my FC12 and 2x EV-1s, and my FM3.

Did you need to drill out any of the Duo board holes to fit the FM3/FC6?
 

bleujazz3

Inspired
I used 20mm, M3.5-0.6 Metric Coarse Thread screws for my FC6, FM3 and EV2s (left feet on but a pain in the rump) on a Temple Duo 34. No problem. Only issue with the Temple is you have to solder your own XLRs to run them under the board connecting FM3 and FC6.
Hear that. Good news is, we won't need to bend over as much anymore to adjust our boards! Once set, all is good. :)

It's really not rocket surgery. Sheesh. I'll be good once I'm back on track.
 
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Boogyin1979

Member
Actually, I used the Temple XLR modules for both the FASlink and speakers outs. Two individual boards housing my FC12 and 2x EV-1s, and my FM3.

Did you need to drill out any of the Duo board holes to fit the FM3/FC6?
Nope. Didn’t even need washers on the other side.
 

bleujazz3

Inspired
I won't need to quickly detach my components, so I didn't use Temple's quick releases. I took the rubber feet off everything and used M3.5-.60 16mm screws for everything. Had to use a few washers where it didn't feel like there was enough depth to hold the screw length or where there was a larger hole in the Templeboard. Had to drill some holes larger for alignment (circled in red). Relay G50 wireless mounted underneath with velcro.

View attachment 86815

View attachment 86816

@dsimms: This looks feasible. What size screws did you use and did you need to drill anything in order to attach both the FM3 & FC6? Unless my FC12 screw holes don't line up correctly, this could be my solution. Will take a look and assess in a minute. Right after my bowl of crunchy nuts and twigs.
 

DaveO

Power User
Heres is how I did mine, I left the rubber feet on...
EV1 on each side the duo34, left some extra space between FM3 and FC6 for air...
IMG_0929.jpgIMG_0931.jpg
 

bleujazz3

Inspired
Finished my Duo 34 & Duo 17 builds this evening using the original FC12 / FM3 / EV-1 base screws. These are secure in the screw holes, but I'm thinking it may be safer to use the same size but longer lengths and washers in case the screws tear out of the holes. They're not secured that deeply, so it might be better to key in with longer lengths. Not doing the rabbit hole thing again this time. Am wiser than previously. Will post images Saturday in 'Show Those FM3 Rigs' and my '10 Weeks In: FM3 & FC12 Review' threads...
 
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