Do you touch adv parameters in the amp block? Which and what for?

You owe it to yourself to at least see what each parameter does. There are some that do more than others and I agree, to a certain extent, with moving on to another model if one doesn't quite get you there. But if you have an idea of what each parameter does, you then have an arsenal of knowledge that can take that 'almost there' tone and make it exactly what you need. I would much rather play than tweak as well but I enjoy playing more when I'm not thinking 'what's missing?'.
 
I try not to make rules of thumb. The risk is that you'll miss a "better answer" by not making discoveries through fearless experimentation. After all, there's no risk tweaking, saving to a different location, and comparing to your tried-and-true...

Statistically speaking though, there are a few non-basic parameters I'd say I tend to use more than others.

The Graphic EQ, if you don't already consider that "Basic"
Graphic EQ LOCATION
Input Select (does this even count?)
Output Compression Amount and Clarity
Supply Sag
xFormer Match
The Speaker page when needed
Definition as a quick-fix
Bright Cap
Low Cut Freq
Hi Cut Freq
New Motor Drive

Yeah, the master himself ;-).
Most of this I use myself.
But I will "fearlessly experiment" with xFormer match, speaker page, definition and motor drive on the weekend.
Thanks!
 
Thanks a million for your feedback y´all!
I´m happy I can ask a question here and get a load of help within hours. Awesome!

I will report back how it´s going.
 
I'll start by A/B'ing two IR's, pick the better one, and if DR-B-M-T-P-MV doesn't get me there, I'll tend toward the following adv parm's:

1. Low Cut & Low & High Cut Freq

2. Input trim

3. Output Comp (Clarity at 6.5, Thresh at -30), if no Comp block after Amp block

4. Definition (if it's both clubby and dark)

5. Low Res (more focused low end boost/cut than Depth knob to me)

6. Xformer Match (if I "must have" this sound but just more "open.")

By this point, if it still doesn't sound right, I move on to another amp or IR. Or I'll just go take a dump, come back, and everything sounds fantastic.
 
I'll start by A/B'ing two IR's, pick the better one, and if DR-B-M-T-P-MV doesn't get me there, I'll tend toward the following adv parm's:

1. Low Cut & Low & High Cut Freq

2. Input trim

3. Output Comp (Clarity at 6.5, Thresh at -30), if no Comp block after Amp block

4. Definition (if it's both clubby and dark)

5. Low Res (more focused low end boost/cut than Depth knob to me)

6. Xformer Match (if I "must have" this sound but just more "open.")

By this point, if it still doesn't sound right, I move on to another amp or IR. Or I'll just go take a dump, come back, and everything sounds fantastic.
especially the last sentence is so true ;-))
 
Motor Drive is the #1 thing right now. Output Comp used to be #1 but sometimes the Motor Drive adds enough compression on it's own. I change the power tubes and/or preamp tubes on occasion. And I prefer to change the B+ Time Const when I want a different feel.
 
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I would be interested to hear what parameters are most helpful to dial in different flavors of high end sizzle. This is on my to do list
 
I personally stick to the basic controls in the amp block, very occasionally messing with the low res freq in the speaker tab. I also use low cut and high cut in the cab block. I used to mess around with the advanced settings but I found I'd do more harm than good with them. No harm in messing with them though, you might find something you like! Beauty of the digital world, we won't break something if we don't know what we're doing :D
 
I use them heavily on some presets, but usually everything is at default. They are very powerful tools, for example, character, sag and transformer match can transform the amp. For leads, I search for a very bouncy feel, that has a fat "octaver" feel on top of the note, like a real Bogner XTC and Mesa Studio 22 have , but even stronger.

On some ancient firmware, I got incredible responsive crazy nintendo fuzz tone just by randomly tweaking some advanced mysteries, but it doesnt work anymore. I need to try to redo that.

My tip: try the character at minus 10 or whatever is the minimum, and set the freq to max and try all types. Some amps go in to full berserk mode with this.
 
A lot of it comes down to the specific IR/Amp/Guitarsetup one is working it at any given case, but the two most important advanced settings i find myself adjusting almost every time are;

Negative Feedback (Power Amp Section);
I don't know if its only for my ears and my personal preference, but i feel that the default value for most amp models is usually waaay overhyped as far as the negative feedback goes.

This results in the amp sounding extremely muddy and bloated around the 200-400 hz area (as if there's a thick shag rug covering the entire rig).

Specifically for high gain tones, i usually play constant chugs to an instrumental track, while dialing down the negative feedback until i hit that sweet spot where the overall sounds locks in with the rest of the mix.

This usually ends up being anywhere between 1.00-3.00, depending on the situation.

Low Res Freq (Speaker Section):
Again, the default value set on the individual amp, doesn't always match up with [insert cab model], as all cabs have varying resonant peaks from brand to brand.

Some amps have the default value set somewhere around 120-180hz, and in my experience this specific range can become overwhelming when playing palm mutes, resulting in this loud "OOOO"ing boom.

In which case, i scoot down the frequency till the bottom end sounds pleasing and full, usually landing somewhere around 80-90 hz (going any lower than that usually becomes inaudible).
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Other than that, i stick with the basic tone controls, and it usually delivers the goods as promised :D
 
I recently messed around with speaker and motor drives a little bit on a couple of patches. To my ear, they helped to make the sound coming from my PA monitor sound more "real" and less "hi-fi"... if that makes any sense.

It's easy to get carried away, IMO. But in these two patches (my first real effort with the advanced adjustments) it subtly improved the "mic'd tone" coming from the monitor.

fwiw
 
I tend to go through pretty much everything,... you'd be amazed at the difference between a good sound and a great sound ;) If I have the time I like to take each "knob" to both sides of it's extreme and see how it effects the sound/tone ... it's all about experimentation, and after you do it for a while you'll find the things that have a tendency to work the best for "You" and your sound,..
 
With the current firmware , .....nope. plug and play. If I can't agree with my tone using the more basic controls , I'm more apt to change amps.
I love the fact that the tools are there , don't get me wrong. I just think FAS has got it going on with this firmware , and I can respect each amp like it is , for what it is.
 
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