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Di Box into Axe Fx

joe pat grant

New Member
What happens if you run a low impedance di box at around 2k ohms into the axe fx 3?
I read about people using the countryman di box or a radial di box with the axe fx.
Is there any problems with the impedances of a Di box output into the Axe Fx inputs?
thanks
 

JDR3009

Inspired
Perhaps I just have a narrow application of the Axe FX, but why would you need a DI box going into it? If you’re splitting the signal upstream for example, I was under the impression that the Axe FX can handle that just fine on its own?
 

joe pat grant

New Member
Maybe this is off topic, but im new to the axe fx and am struggling to find tones that i like. I Like allot of crystal clear single note definition in chords with some breakup.
I was just throwing it out there as i find the tones ive been able to make all sound kind of dull and dark. Or far to overdriven.
I have put lots of time into axe edit and will continue to experiment and put time in.
I read one topic on this forum about a guy who got better tone that he thought was brighter when he used a countryman type 85.
Wondering if anyone had any experience with that, or if its just for reamping?
And maybe my dilemma is common?
thanks.
 

joe pat grant

New Member
Fender squire old trusty, schecter tempest, Jackson something or rather.
ill check the amps and cabs i have found so far to be the least terrible when i can and reply with that info. I monitor through (one set at a time) Dynaudio Lyd 48's, M-audio bx4's, a set of blue headphones, and some earbuds for reference.
Its tough to explain, i want it to sound more real and natural and be able to feel the metal of the string through the speaker.
Clean with some drive.
crispy, not screechy, and to hear individual note resonance in chords instead of all the notes muddying together.
"Edge of breakup" tones are kind of a catch all phrase that might describe.
 

artzeal

Experienced
If you use a DI: Input through the Line in inputs for the usual impedance matching reasons. If you want a neutral, uncolored, maximum fidelity guitar into amp signal go guitar direct into the Axe Input 1. If you want to "condition the signal" with added harmonics then the Neve RNDI or ISA1 will do that very well, and the better stage grade utility DIs like the Radials or Countryman do a fine job as well, but none of then are going to outperform the AxeFX3 for that "hitting the amp with a guitar signal" and sounding/feeling like a guitarist expects. If there's some quality of a specific DI you want to use, or you want to reamp previously recorded DIs, then go for it, it can work out well, but direct into the Axe and/or reamping the Axe's DI gives the best, and most repeatable results, IME.
 

mr_fender

Axe-Master
What kind of instrument cable are you using? Cable capacitance and length is more likely to contribute to muddy tones than the Axe III's input.

Beyond that, post a preset or two you're struggling with and folks here can help point you in the right direction.
 

joe pat grant

New Member
So an amp i have been tweaking to gods end is the wrecker liverpool, and the cab ive found best for now is the totally flat cab.
I will commit to trying more cabs/amps.

Ill look into upgrading pickups great idea thanks! any idea suggestions on good pickups for a clean, punchy, tone with some clear breakup on the edges and lots of single note definition?

Thanks for the DI vs AxeFx info.

I'll try proximity and smoothing in cab block, thanks.

My cable is a 10ft TRS straight into input one of my Axe Fx3.
you can use balanced cables for unbalanced purposes right?

My Noble Di box is on its way, (will use for other purposes too lol)

Once i figure out how to post sound clips ill post those and also screenshots of simple presets.

Thanks for all your suggestions fractal people!

PS: no idea how to tag people and dont know if its advantageous to do so.
 

joe pat grant

New Member
Axe Fx output 1 L/R into two 15 foot XLR cables, into mic's 1 & 2 of a Steinberg AXR4 audio interface, input levels set right! AXR4 L/R line outs into: Dynaudio Lyd48's, M-audio BX4's, Blue headphones, and Ferrari earbuds.
Ive also tried with the usb from the Axe Fx and that works too.
 

jamesmarshall

Inspired
So an amp i have been tweaking to gods end is the wrecker liverpool, and the cab ive found best for now is the totally flat cab.
I will commit to trying more cabs/amps.

Ill look into upgrading pickups great idea thanks! any idea suggestions on good pickups for a clean, punchy, tone with some clear breakup on the edges and lots of single note definition?

Thanks for the DI vs AxeFx info.

I'll try proximity and smoothing in cab block, thanks.

My cable is a 10ft TRS straight into input one of my Axe Fx3.
you can use balanced cables for unbalanced purposes right?

My Noble Di box is on its way, (will use for other purposes too lol)

Once i figure out how to post sound clips ill post those and also screenshots of simple presets.

Thanks for all your suggestions fractal people!

PS: no idea how to tag people and dont know if its advantageous to do so.

I would not use a TRS cable into an unbalanced TS input/output (the guitar out is TS). This might be part of your issue. I would try a good shielded instrument (TS) cable not a cheap hosa or similar. No need to spend a ton of money on like a George L or anything like that.

James
 

J.C

Experienced
It's a plug and play device, that is fool proof. Chances are very good it's either the guitar, cable, speakers or something else.
 

FractalAudio

Administrator
Fractal Audio Systems
Moderator
So an amp i have been tweaking to gods end is the wrecker liverpool, and the cab ive found best for now is the totally flat cab.
You should probably see an audiologist. What you're describing sounds like a complete loss of high frequency sensitivity. The totally flat cab has no filtering and sounds absolutely wretched. It's only there for diagnostic and special effect purposes.
 

Greg Ferguson

Axe-Master
I would try a good shielded instrument (TS) cable not a cheap hosa or similar. No need to spend a ton of money on like a George L or anything like that.
Like so many other things in life, the chain is only as strong as the weakest link. The guitar cable should be good quality otherwise it will kill highs which can’t be recovered, or have lousy quality plugs or bad workmanship that break, and be the shortest length you can comfortably work with. Avoid coiled cables as they’re unnecessarily long, avoid molded plugs and those horrible molded cables.

I use Fender’s best 15’ cable if I’m out jamming because they sound ok and are decently built so they stand up and have life-time replacement; In the last ten years I’ve only had to have one replaced and that was when someone stood on the cable breaking a solder joint. If I’m doing a show I use Mogami Gold in a 15’ and have never needed to replace it. At home I use George L’s in either 10’ or 15’ and have never had to replace one and only needed to trim the end once after tripping on the cable and pulling it out of the socket.

If I’ve spent thousands on a guitar, and thousands on an amp or modeler, I’ll spend over $50 for a cable.
 

mr_fender

Axe-Master
Yeah, if it's not bright and articulate enough with the Totally Flat cab, something else is wrong. That cab gets you into attracting mosquitoes territory through FRFR or monitors. If you play recorded music through the Axe FX via USB does everything sound normal through your monitors or headphones? Maybe you've got a blown tweeter or something.
 

plyall

Power User
It can.

I can see no benefit to a DI box in front of the 3.
I can see one... if you're tracking your AXE-III in analog so you can use another clock rate other than 48K. This allows you to setup an analog DI, while feeding the Axe with your guitar signal. This might be useful is someone had to work at 44.1Khz.
 

Werpinater

Inspired
I would say a blown tweeter, does it do it through every listening device you have? Maybe one of the controls on your guitar is broken or tone turned all the way down?
 
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