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Charvel Pro Mod dk-24 tuning issues

darkermateria

New Member
I found a solution to this issue. Obviously everyones guitar will could have a differing set of underlying problems that lead to tuning instability.

I own a Charvel Dk24 hardtail bridge that was brand new and would not stay in tune. The issue was always with the G and the B strings. Anytime I did a bend on either string, the string go out of tune.

What I discovered was that it was just poorly set up from the factory. Heres what I did, and it definitely has fixed the problem for me.

1. Tighten 10mm nuts that hold tuning posts to headstock. I suspect this was the main culprit. All of mine were undertightened. Obvious you dont want to overtighten them but snugging them down was critical.
2. Restring using new strings and DONT wrap multiple times around the post. I only did an extra wrap for the high E string because it was more likely to slip. I have locking tuners
3. Tightened the string trees. Mine didnt feel like they needed it, in fact neither of the screws moved, but i did make sure they were tight. Again dont strip anything. Snug is enough
4. I removed the bridge and retighted the three screws that hold it to the body. I dont think this was part of the problem, but I'm glad i did it.
5. Reset the saddles.. i had to do this to gain access to the bridge screws. Check the height and that neither of the screws are higher than the other. If a saddle tips from side to side, it could cause issues.

Obviously intonation will have to be reset of you do this last step.

That was all I did, and I no longer have a problem with keeping it in tune. This is one of the best sounding and playing guitars I've ever owned, so I was very glad to fix this problem. I hope this helps.
 

Rex

Legend!
I found a solution to this issue. Obviously everyones guitar will could have a differing set of underlying problems that lead to tuning instability.

I own a Charvel Dk24 hardtail bridge that was brand new and would not stay in tune. The issue was always with the G and the B strings. Anytime I did a bend on either string, the string go out of tune.

What I discovered was that it was just poorly set up from the factory. Heres what I did, and it definitely has fixed the problem for me.

1. Tighten 10mm nuts that hold tuning posts to headstock. I suspect this was the main culprit. All of mine were undertightened. Obvious you dont want to overtighten them but snugging them down was critical.
2. Restring using new strings and DONT wrap multiple times around the post. I only did an extra wrap for the high E string because it was more likely to slip. I have locking tuners
3. Tightened the string trees. Mine didnt feel like they needed it, in fact neither of the screws moved, but i did make sure they were tight. Again dont strip anything. Snug is enough
4. I removed the bridge and retighted the three screws that hold it to the body. I dont think this was part of the problem, but I'm glad i did it.
5. Reset the saddles.. i had to do this to gain access to the bridge screws. Check the height and that neither of the screws are higher than the other. If a saddle tips from side to side, it could cause issues.

Obviously intonation will have to be reset of you do this last step.

That was all I did, and I no longer have a problem with keeping it in tune. This is one of the best sounding and playing guitars I've ever owned, so I was very glad to fix this problem. I hope this helps.
Loose tuning machines are one of the most common causes of tuning instability.

You mentioned that you have locking tuners. They don't require any extra straps around the post, for any string. For non-locking tuners, you'll only need two wraps for the low strings and three wraps for the high strings. That won't cause any tuning issues.
 

Dale LeClaire

Inspired
I recently got a new HSS version, to eventually replace my HSH. It is the new "red ash" version, so an ash body rather than the typical alder on the rest of them. There are a lot of differences from my HSH or any of the alder MIM ones (red ash is made in South Korea), but maybe the most significant (at least to this discussion) is it came with roller trees from factory. Definitely a lot more stable than my HSH with light/moderate trem use.
 

unix-guy

Legend!
Since my Suhr just got shipped out I'll probably get a chance now to really tell how much staggered tuners and no string trees help ;)
 

MK-9

Inspired
Just an update on my post from a few weeks ago. I pulled out the posts to double check there was no damage to the set screws. All good.

Couple weeks gone by now and the guitar has been rock f***ing solid ever since I tapped those posts in. Matter of fact, I've barely even picked up my San Dimas since I got this resolved and have been solely playing the DK24.
 

lucasataide

New Member
So to be clear I didn't change the tuners because I had any concern with them. I changed them to get staggered posts to eliminate the string trees as that is where I suspected the issue was.

So far so good. I feel like I might finally have it all sorted out. Still want to get a bit more play time first.

As far as the neck, it's great. I have primarily been an Ibanez Wizard guy for 30 years... The Charvel neck is nowhere as thin but it's very comfortable and the feel of it is excellent.

I think even with about $240 extra for locking saddles and staggered tuners it's still worth the money. I could have spent half what I did on tuners but wanted to try the Ratio tuners, which are pretty cool.
hi @unix-guy,
I've been facing the same issue with my Charvel dk24. I've owned many other more expensive guitars and this guitar is by far the best In all terms (soundwise and playability). I've read a lot about Wilkison tremolo with locking saddles. Some people that changed to this saddle system have experienced some string breakage due to the screw tightness over the string. Have you read about this or even got the same issue? thank you
 

unix-guy

Legend!
hi @unix-guy,
I've been facing the same issue with my Charvel dk24. I've owned many other more expensive guitars and this guitar is by far the best In all terms (soundwise and playability). I've read a lot about Wilkison tremolo with locking saddles. Some people that changed to this saddle system have experienced some string breakage due to the screw tightness over the string. Have you read about this or even got the same issue? thank you
I think you'd have to be pretty heavy handed to break the strings by over tightening the lock screw. You are just preventing the string from moving... It's not like Floyd Rose where the lock block is the "anchor".

I haven't had any issues with that... If you can find the saddles in stock they are definitely worth it!
 

LosD

Member
I think you'd have to be pretty heavy handed to break the strings by over tightening the lock screw. You are just preventing the string from moving... It's not like Floyd Rose where the lock block is the "anchor".

I haven't had any issues with that... If you can find the saddles in stock they are definitely worth it!

How has been your experience with the Ratio tuners? Still thinking about staggered tuners though I addressed most tuning issues on DK24 2pt by skipping the D/G tree and winding down (1-2 mm) my G string to drop the angle after the nut.
 

unix-guy

Legend!
How has been your experience with the Ratio tuners? Still thinking about staggered tuners though I addressed most tuning issues on DK24 2pt by skipping the D/G tree and winding down (1-2 mm) my G string to drop the angle after the nut.
They're cool. Direct replacement for the original ones. Staggered tuners allowed me to ditch the string trees.

Been looking at getting the USA version that comes with a string tree for only the B and E strings (pretty sure they come with staggered tuners).
 

unix-guy

Legend!
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