Build your own external switch box....How?

unix-guy said:
I think the challenge there would be jack and switch placement... Because putting the jack on the short end will force you to move on switch away from the end, since both cannot occupy the same internal space.
Click to expand...

I did think of that. I think I found an enclosure that will allow me to get what I want. It's a little wider than a very slim box but should work well for my needs. Worse case I need to get a longer box.
 
Tremonti said:
Completed. I have not painted nor tested yet, and will do so soon. I'll keep you all posted and then offer to build if you all like and want to purchase.
Click to expand...

I'm not bashing your design ..... but you might have been happier with a Hammond 1411tu enclosure, https://www.mouser.com/ProductDetail/Hammond-Manufacturing/1411TU?qs=k5YXvLLCsLH4%2B7Ku10e5bg==, so that you could have put your switches in a single line for easier access and less chance of "accidentally" hitting the one in front when aiming for the rear switch ...... or even a couple 1590a enclosures that are a bit smaller than the 1411tu.
 
ssmorga78 said:
I'm not bashing your design ..... but you might have been happier with a Hammond 1411tu enclosure, https://www.mouser.com/ProductDetail/Hammond-Manufacturing/1411TU?qs=k5YXvLLCsLH4%2B7Ku10e5bg==, so that you could have put your switches in a single line for easier access and less chance of "accidentally" hitting the one in front when aiming for the rear switch ...... or even a couple 1590a enclosures that are a bit smaller than the 1411tu.
Click to expand...
I wanted something larger like what I did. I can make the front buttons recess more to make the back buttons more accessible. I actually bought a smaller box, buy preferred this. If I start making these for folks, they'll be options.
 
Old aircraft avionics tech and lifelong electronics hobbyist, I still do all my own amps and equipment repairs but my aging 70 year old eyes make it harder each day - LOL.

the point of that intro was - parts on order to make a 4 switch, all switches will be "in a row" ("DD" enclosure so 7.38" x 4.7" x 1.3") at top/back of box but the box will also have 3 pots, a la Leon, but offset from each other and with larger knobs for better foot control (knobs similar to Sweet Ultra and Mojo vibe knobs). When I have time to build and once its done I'll post pics for grins.
 
Okay, pop quiz. Is the Tip or Ring switch 1? Tip seems that it would be 1 but I wanted to make sure before I cut my wires to length.
 
In the end it didn't matter as I realized I could easily configure it. Thanks for all the info. This was very easy to do. I made one miscalculation, which in the end doesn't matter too much.

The stand in switch feature is greatly appreciated. My two switches allowed me to free up two hold functions and I have a little added functionality. One switch is tuner/reveal and the other is my get out jail button, MLM/Layout 1 (Presets). I have rehearsals coming up in a week or so and I'll put this through it's paces.

The big question is what do I do with my two free hold functions now. I think my layouts are about to change a bit.

jn-pedalboard.png
 
4&3 small.jpg 4&3 FC6 & Mission SP1 small.jpg

As mentioned previously, here is my finished “4 & 3 box:” Four stand-in switches (or whatever I end up doing with all four) and three foot controllable pots (albeit easier to use with socked foot than my booted size 13’s), done up in Sea Foam Green (think Strat). Enclosure is a ~ 7.4” X 4.7” X 1.5” - (usable inside space 7 x 4.3 X 1.3), it’s a Hammond “1590DD” box.

Why 3 CC’s why not 2 or 4? Well I don’t have to use all three, I already have an expression for AXE wah and other stuff (a Mission SP1) and before I gave up a floor full of pedals for an AXE FX III I only ever needed one full size foot controller i.e., an actual wah-wah. Things like Ultra/Mojo vibes were speed controlled or speed set with foot using identical style knobs. Besides I already have two other full size, albeit inexpensive plastic M-Audio CC’s pedals hooked into back of AXE as it is so any more is over kill for me – I have yet to use those other than to test them.

Another pic is to see size relative to FC-6 and Mission pedal. Why show on breakfast table and not hooked up, LAZY. I just finished building it and putting Barefoot buttons on my FC-6 at table so why show them hooked up on my messy carpeted floor with cables going to and fro, keyboard and racked synth CC pedals, keyboard stands, my FCB 1010, backpack, dog toys, dust, plus it was so much easier to take pics while these where on the table

I’ll be adding Barefoot buttons to my 4 switches but I have to order them which I’ll do as soon as I get done here – LOL
 
Nicely done Larry, like the foot adjustable idea

I’m try to out together a similar concept, but I’m trying to come up with a large vertical wheel, ala the UberVibe or the old Maestro phaser with the “balls” control

Something with like a 3” diameter, and the edge of the wheel just slightly proud of the top deck of the enclosure, so really easy to roll forward or back with the foot, for things like an output level adjustment. Trick is doing it in a way where I don’t have to worry about too much pressure snapping off a shaft.....
 
Just wish I could have found a wider enclose, say ~ 9". Then I could have spread out the momentary switches and pots just a hair more. Actual plan (but we all know plans fall part at first contact with enemy), was to place the left and right pots mid-case (i.e, mid-front to back) then all three pots are "clear" of each other but couldn't because I could not fit five jacks (one jack each for each pair of switches and one for each pot) on the back with the momentary switches sitting there. Two more inches and I could have easily done this.
 
@Larry Kehl nice work! Cramming even jacks and pots into enclousures can be tough. I'm always amazed at what folks like Chase Bliss can do with a 1590 enclosure size!
 
Jack Napalm said:
In the end it didn't matter as I realized I could easily configure it. Thanks for all the info. This was very easy to do. I made one miscalculation, which in the end doesn't matter too much.

The stand in switch feature is greatly appreciated. My two switches allowed me to free up two hold functions and I have a little added functionality. One switch is tuner/reveal and the other is my get out jail button, MLM/Layout 1 (Presets). I have rehearsals coming up in a week or so and I'll put this through it's paces.

The big question is what do I do with my two free hold functions now. I think my layouts are about to change a bit.

View attachment 55433
Click to expand...

Looks great. One thing you could try is if you don't mind moving your FC-6 forward... you could possibly mount the switches directly to the board itself. Here is what I did on a Novo 32.

9BDB873F-05D6-4E35-9900-1AE6BA809700.jpeg
 
lqdsnddist said:
Nicely done Larry, like the foot adjustable idea

I’m try to out together a similar concept, but I’m trying to come up with a large vertical wheel, ala the UberVibe or the old Maestro phaser with the “balls” control

Something with like a 3” diameter, and the edge of the wheel just slightly proud of the top deck of the enclosure, so really easy to roll forward or back with the foot, for things like an output level adjustment. Trick is doing it in a way where I don’t have to worry about too much pressure snapping off a shaft.....
Click to expand...
I know you're probably planning a DIY, but the Boomerang Wholly Roller is a cool design for that.
 
unix-guy said:
I know you're probably planning a DIY, but the Boomerang Wholly Roller is a cool design for that.
Click to expand...

That is a cool and rugged design, never saw one of those before... thanks for the tip. Might be tricky for a DIY, but I do like the concept...

Something like 3 wholly rollers in a row though would be really cool across the top of the FC though, really easy to adjust with a toe/foot, great for monitor output level etc for on the fly adjustments.....

Hmmmm... wonder if something like a pot with a knob, and then a short sleeve of pipe, with some grip tape applied around it, and then a pivot point on the other side would be easy to rig up ? Certainly would make it stronger have two points of rotation instead of just the pot shaft?
 
lqdsnddist said:
That is a cool and rugged design, never saw one of those before... thanks for the tip. Might be tricky for a DIY, but I do like the concept...

Something like 3 wholly rollers in a row though would be really cool across the top of the FC though, really easy to adjust with a toe/foot, great for monitor output level etc for on the fly adjustments.....

Hmmmm... wonder if something like a pot with a knob, and then a short sleeve of pipe, with some grip tape applied around it, and then a pivot point on the other side would be easy to rig up ? Certainly would make it stronger have two points of rotation instead of just the pot shaft?
Click to expand...
You could probably use a small utility wheel designed for carts... Or even a short section of a wooden hanger bar (from a closet). Just have to figure out how to attach to a pot.
 
Nice project - I would go for the single row option for additional switches. My feet are too fat for an upper/lower set of buttons
 
I00K linear but could have used 10K linear pots (not AUDIO taper).

Ended up with these from Antique Electronics

https://www.tubesandmore.com/products/potentiometer-alpha-linear-solid-shaft

Because the KNOBS I wanted to use, and ended up using, would not go on the knurled shafts of the 100 K/10K pots from Small Bear.

http://smallbear-electronics.mybigcommerce.com/pot-alpha-100k-linear-and-audio-usa-big-muff/

I already had some 100K knurled shaft pots sitting around so got some MXR style knobs with 1” MXR knob covers from Small Bear for the knurled shaft (you can do own look up on those) but they are slightly smaller and harder to set with a foot then ones I used.

The knobs I am using are the same as used on my Bob Sweets Ultra and Mojo Vibe’s vibes (as well as Fulltones offerings) - they were always easy to control with my foot but only place I could find those were on ebay:

https://www.ebay.com/itm/NEW-Sweet-Sound-MOJO-VIBE-Uni-Vibe-REPLACEMENT-KNOB-/112515955432

There are bigger and just slightly more expensive options (Wingman) for foot controlled knobs but in my case they would have interfered with each other (too close together).

http://wingmanfx.com/

But how/what you control with foot is situation/project box (size and spacing) dependent.

I just did not want three more expression pedals, even “mini’s” (already have two in back of FX3 itslef, one in FC6, two built into FCB-1010 ot to mention a few on each of my keyboards and workstations) so I built that box to house max switches and continuous pedals in one less space hogging item. I got FX 3 to get stuff OFF of the floor not add more to it -LOL

Hope that helps
 
Last edited:
Larry Kehl said:
View attachment 55544

As mentioned previously, here is my finished “4 & 3 box:” Four stand-in switches (or whatever I end up doing with all four) and three foot controllable pots (albeit easier to use with socked foot than my booted size 13’s), done up in
Click to expand...

The knob-in-a-box idea here looks like a good solution for echo repeats in my rig.
Currently using three CC pedals:
  1. Volume
  2. Echo volume (controlling input level to delay block)
  3. Echo feedback to control repeat quantity.
My FC12 arrives Friday, so will play with the concept after that. :)

If the setup ends up in an aluminium box similar to the one you have, the top will get polished to a mirror finish, labeling decals applied, then placed face-down in a small tray with FeCl solution to etch the front everywhere the labels aren't. :)
 
You must log in or register to reply here.
Back
Top Bottom