Yes, but to figure that out, I must connect all. Can you help me with that, first.
As promised, here are some tips directly from Matt at Matrix...
Firstly, it is very important to start with a new patch for the Matrix. Dial one in for the Meda 2:90 / 2:20 and one for the Matrix. You won't get a patch that sounds great on both. As a general rule, tube power amps tend to add more bottom end and some extra "sizzle".
So on to some tweaking.
In the amp block there's a very important page that deals with Speaker Resonance (Spkr tab), normally this is set to a default 95hz but shifting the Low Freq to 110 or even 120hz will give you a big lift in the bottom end. Raise the Low Res value for extra effect. You can also do the same with the high frequency to add some sizzle or take away. Again, just alter the res value. The same goes for the mids. These controls interact with how the virtual poweramp of the sim reacts with the speaker.
The other "go to" tweak for getting a bit of extra warmth is to raise the Depth value (page 2 of the amp controls). This value is set to 250hz in the ADV parameters tab which again can be altered to give a little less "wool" if needed. Raising the depth value will raise the warmth centered around that default 250hz frequency.
Master volume on the amp controls can play a part as well. A common error is to crank up the master to increase volume in the patch but this function is best left to the Level control. A master volume too high on some amps can lessen the effect of some EQ controls (tends to be more modern amps) and values of about 4 to 5 are best suited. Worth keeping in mind sometimes.
In the ADV parameter of the amp block the a a couple of useful things to check. One is Low Cut Freq and High Cut Freq. High cut can be useful for dialling out some harsh top end you may get. Bright cap value can also do this. Just lower the value and experiment. Depending on the amp type, low cut can add a little bottom end if the value is lowered (obviously!) but sometimes it will be at it's lowest default setting. (useful if the amp is a bit boomy in the lows- just raise!)
Also remember that Cliff put an EQ tab into the amp block. Don't be afraid to tweak (small amounts at first) to get the amp really dialled in. Speaking of EQ's, you can also use a parametric EQ block after the amp. This can be useful for a couple of things. Increasing lows, focussing or accentuating frequecies and taming highs. Set tabs 1 and 5 to blocking mode but set the frequencies to a broad spectrum, say 70hz and 8500hz (or higher or lower, whatever speakers you're using). Increasing the Q factor of the low freq will give a little hump in the bottom end thus boost low end. If you were using a bass heavy speaker (say a V30 and wanted to remove some of that you could also lower the Q slightly). On the highs you can lower the Q to give a little "smoothing" to the tail off of highs. Try bypassing the PEQ and compare it with the straight amp. Use the other frequecy tabs to add/cut any mids or highs to the amp sound just like a normal EQ pedal would. Or use a separate GEQ or PEQ block if needed in the chain if you want to switch it in and out.
Also remember that patches created at lower volumes will sound different when cranked (just like a real amp) so always try and tweak with as much volume as you can get away with.
Hope some of these tips help.