AXE + Matrix + Mesa 4x12 cab. How to...?

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Just got my new Matrix so I need advice how to connect everything to work properly? I'm new in this stuff so need little help. Do I need to change some parameters on AXE...? Sorry for poor English, I'm not good in technical phrases. Thanks!


AXE FX 2, Matrix GT1000fx, Mesa Boogie Roadking cab 4x12
 
Just got my new Matrix so I need advice how to connect everything to work properly? I'm new in this stuff so need little help. Do I need to change some parameters on AXE...? Sorry for poor English, I'm not good in technical phrases. Thanks!


AXE FX 2, Matrix GT1000fx, Mesa Boogie Roadking cab 4x12

I had the same exact setup... In summary, after endless hours of tweaking I wasn't satisfied, so I went back to using a 2:Ninety. The Matrix was just too flat for me with no sizzle or compression. I tried to like it, but I couldn't swallow the Kool-Aid

Most people in here seems to love them, but I think most of them are using FRFR cabinets.

That was my experience, I'm curious to what you find... ? I hope you have a better one.
 
I'm assuming you have the Matrix GT1000fx?
if yes
there are 3 speaker outs in the back use the leftmost and the right most and connect them to the 2 8 Ohm stereo inputs on the left of the input jacks plate of the Mesa cab
where it says split for stereo.
 
Connect Guitar to Axe-Fx
guitar -> Axe-Fx Guitar Input (front panel)

Connect Axe-Fx to Matrix
Output 1 on the back of Axe-Fx -> Input on Matrix poweramp (the input jacks are on the left hand side of the Matrix when you're looking at it from behind)

Connect Matrix to your Speaker Cab
Output jacks on the back of the Matrix poweramp (only use the output A and B jacks. the X jack is for combining both, which you don't want to do) -> Top Left and Bottom Left jacks on the speaker cab when looking at it from the rear)


notes: make sure you use SPEAKER CABLE to connect the matrix to the cab. Speaker cable has a heavier gauge wire than instrument cable. If you use instrument cable here and turn the volume up for a while, you could melt the cable and set your house on fire, which is probably not what you want to do.
 
Yes, but to figure that out, I must connect all. Can you help me with that, first. :)

Sure... I have an email from (Matt at) Matrix with some detailed suggested tweaks. I will find it later when I get home and post it in here for you and possibly others that my benefit from it.
 
Thanks for all! So, connection is clear for me, now. :) And, what about output level on AXE and level on Matrix, cause Matrix is too strong in power for cab. How to setup all to be safe? Thanks again for all!


Yes, it is GT1000. I have god cables from my head cab connection.
 
Connect Guitar to Axe-Fx
guitar -> Axe-Fx Guitar Input (front panel)

Connect Axe-Fx to Matrix
Output 1 on the back of Axe-Fx -> Input on Matrix poweramp (the input jacks are on the left hand side of the Matrix when you're looking at it from behind)

Connect Matrix to your Speaker Cab
Output jacks on the back of the Matrix poweramp (only use the output A and B jacks. the X jack is for combining both, which you don't want to do) -> Top Left and Bottom Left jacks on the speaker cab when looking at it from the rear)


notes: make sure you use SPEAKER CABLE to connect the matrix to the cab. Speaker cable has a heavier gauge wire than instrument cable. If you use instrument cable here and turn the volume up for a while, you could melt the cable and set your house on fire, which is probably not what you want to do.

I have to disagree with Output1

Using a real cab You don't need Ir so you don't need Cab in layout ... So let Out1 free for PA purpose with cab sim

Use FXLoop before Cab Sim to send signal to Output2
The main reason to use Matrix or other "dry" power amp is that You can let the Beautiful PowerAmp Sim of AxFx2 always on !
Theoretically you have to disengage Poweramp sim too if You use something like Mesa 50:50 etc. BUT You can make some test with that engaged ;)


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk - now Free
 
Thanks for all! So, connection is clear for me, now. :) And, what about output level on AXE and level on Matrix, cause Matrix is too strong in power for cab. How to setup all to be safe? Thanks again for all!


Yes, it is GT1000. I have god cables from my head cab connection.

Trust your ears first and foremost. They'll tell you things are loud enough. It depends upon your patch volume but generally speaking, run the Axe output volume at about 10 o clock and the Matrix volume anywhere from 3 o clock to full. Thats usually stage volume for me but again if your patches are a little quieter you may need to adjust.
The input signal lights on the front of the Matrix give you an indication as to how much power the amp is giving out. Don't worry if they don't light up. If it's loud enough that's all that matters.

Also remember that patches built for use with a tube amp will sound different so you may need to re-tweak or start the build process again.

Hope that helps.
 
Most people in here seems to love them, but I think most of them are using FRFR cabinets.

That was my experience, I'm curious to what you find... ? I hope you have a better one.

Not me. I use a standard Marshall 4x12 cab. The Matrix works better for me than either of my previous power amps did. ( a Mesa and a VHT). The answers are all inside the Axe-Fx. I see now that you don't want anything altering the tone and feel in between the axe and cab.
 
Yes, but to figure that out, I must connect all. Can you help me with that, first. :)

As promised, here are some tips directly from Matt at Matrix...

Firstly, it is very important to start with a new patch for the Matrix. Dial one in for the Meda 2:90 / 2:20 and one for the Matrix. You won't get a patch that sounds great on both. As a general rule, tube power amps tend to add more bottom end and some extra "sizzle".

So on to some tweaking.
In the amp block there's a very important page that deals with Speaker Resonance (Spkr tab), normally this is set to a default 95hz but shifting the Low Freq to 110 or even 120hz will give you a big lift in the bottom end. Raise the Low Res value for extra effect. You can also do the same with the high frequency to add some sizzle or take away. Again, just alter the res value. The same goes for the mids. These controls interact with how the virtual poweramp of the sim reacts with the speaker.

The other "go to" tweak for getting a bit of extra warmth is to raise the Depth value (page 2 of the amp controls). This value is set to 250hz in the ADV parameters tab which again can be altered to give a little less "wool" if needed. Raising the depth value will raise the warmth centered around that default 250hz frequency.

Master volume on the amp controls can play a part as well. A common error is to crank up the master to increase volume in the patch but this function is best left to the Level control. A master volume too high on some amps can lessen the effect of some EQ controls (tends to be more modern amps) and values of about 4 to 5 are best suited. Worth keeping in mind sometimes.

In the ADV parameter of the amp block the a a couple of useful things to check. One is Low Cut Freq and High Cut Freq. High cut can be useful for dialling out some harsh top end you may get. Bright cap value can also do this. Just lower the value and experiment. Depending on the amp type, low cut can add a little bottom end if the value is lowered (obviously!) but sometimes it will be at it's lowest default setting. (useful if the amp is a bit boomy in the lows- just raise!)

Also remember that Cliff put an EQ tab into the amp block. Don't be afraid to tweak (small amounts at first) to get the amp really dialled in. Speaking of EQ's, you can also use a parametric EQ block after the amp. This can be useful for a couple of things. Increasing lows, focussing or accentuating frequecies and taming highs. Set tabs 1 and 5 to blocking mode but set the frequencies to a broad spectrum, say 70hz and 8500hz (or higher or lower, whatever speakers you're using). Increasing the Q factor of the low freq will give a little hump in the bottom end thus boost low end. If you were using a bass heavy speaker (say a V30 and wanted to remove some of that you could also lower the Q slightly). On the highs you can lower the Q to give a little "smoothing" to the tail off of highs. Try bypassing the PEQ and compare it with the straight amp. Use the other frequecy tabs to add/cut any mids or highs to the amp sound just like a normal EQ pedal would. Or use a separate GEQ or PEQ block if needed in the chain if you want to switch it in and out.

Also remember that patches created at lower volumes will sound different when cranked (just like a real amp) so always try and tweak with as much volume as you can get away with.

Hope some of these tips help.
 
WHoop! i've been looking and searching for some threads where the "getting as much out of the virtual power amp as possible" topic was discussed. I haven't really tweaked much on the power amp setting but i will def be looking into this!
 
Well, everything working fine. Just I'm not clear about levels on AXE and Matrix. Is the Lightingboy way right (few posts above) or therd is better "right" way?
 
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