Axe-Fx III Firmware Version 20.04 Release

sean.e said:
oh, interesting -- the recto board was removed in 2004:
https://mesaboogie.zendesk.com/hc/en-us/articles/217784798-What-TriAxis-version-do-I-have-

That explains the changing description of L1R -- version 1 and version 3 (or 4 depending on how you count) have the same L1R.
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unix-guy said:
@State of Epicicity - you might use the wiki to dig deeper. In the Amp list it says this:
https://wiki.fractalaudio.com/wiki/..._models_list#USA_PRE_LD1_RED_.28TX-4_board.29


From a quick bit of googling it appears the TX-4 is for a Recto lead...
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Wow, I had no idea there were so many versions of the TriAxis. It's really interesting that they changed what kind of tone the channels of the unit represent. I do use the wiki normally, but I use it mainly to see what Cliff has said about what makes an amp unique. I couldn't have guessed that one unique characteristic of this preamp is that it has different versions that don't even go for the same type of tone if you compare them channel by channel. What's more disconcerting is that I heard the Recto channel as a type of way overhyped British Lead. :)
 
I had the Phat Mod version with the Recto board years ago. Paired with the 2:90 with Deep engaged, it was pretty close to the Recto heads, but not quite the same. Never tried one of the newer ones with the "British" mode.
 
For the first time, when I switched on my Axe Fx III all the FC layouts were erased, as were the global settings. No big deal but I think this is more to do with the age of my Axe FX rather than FW20.04 (but put here just in case).

My Axe FX was purchased in 2019 and I think the internal battery may need replacing - no problem in doing it, but just to check ..

1. Backup Axe FX, presets, FC, cabs and global settings
2. Switch unit off
3. Remove from rack
4. Change the CR2032 battery for a new one
5. Re-rack
6. Power on
7. Restore all presets, FC, global settings etc

Just checking... this is correct yes ?

Thanks
 
Mine is also from 2019, I’m going to do another backup just to make sure. Should I just go ahead and change the battery now or wait until signs of failure?
 
Just a heads up...

Among other things, the re-worked Drives have a new parameter (High Mid). That new parameter loads with a value of '0.00' on any preset made before that addition. The new default after resetting any Drive model is '5.00'.

I recommend using the 'Batch Setter' function in the Editor to set all channels, of all Drive block instances, of all your older presets, to '5.00' as a quick fix.
 
sean.e said:
oh, interesting -- the recto board was removed in 2004:
https://mesaboogie.zendesk.com/hc/en-us/articles/217784798-What-TriAxis-version-do-I-have-

That explains the changing description of L1R -- version 1 and version 3 (or 4 depending on how you count) have the same L1R.
Click to expand...
yes the one with the TX4 board is the one to have, with no phat mod. There is a big board inside (tx4), the non tx4 has this little board with a few components on it. that one sucks LD1 red is unusable on it.
 
Is there a bug in the Deluxe Twin because the Normal Gain control doesn't appear to be working and on 10.0 it mutes the output of the amp. This appears when using the "Tone" tab of the amp settings, on the "Ideal" tab it works fine
 
bread said:
Is there a bug in the Deluxe Twin because the Normal Gain control doesn't appear to be working and on 10.0 it mutes the output of the amp. This appears when using the "Tone" tab of the amp settings, on the "Ideal" tab it works fine
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There is no "Deluxe Twin" amp model. Do you mean Deluxe Tweed?
 
bread said:
Is there a bug in the Deluxe Twin because the Normal Gain control doesn't appear to be working and on 10.0 it mutes the output of the amp. This appears when using the "Tone" tab of the amp settings, on the "Ideal" tab it works fine
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There are 2 models (Normal/Bright). In the Normal model, the "primary" control is the Normal Gain and in the Bright model the primary control is the Bright Gain.

However, the "alternate" Gain control interacts with the overall circuit.

You can find some info here:

https://wiki.fractalaudio.com/wiki/...57_Fender_narrow-panel_Tweed_Deluxe.2C_5E3.29
 
unix-guy said:
There are 2 models (Normal/Bright). In the Normal model, the "primary" control is the Normal Gain and in the Bright model the primary control is the Bright Gain.

However, the "alternate" Gain control interacts with the overall circuit.

You can find some info here:

https://wiki.fractalaudio.com/wiki/...57_Fender_narrow-panel_Tweed_Deluxe.2C_5E3.29
Click to expand...

OK, I think I understand. It's just that the Ideal tab only has Gain (which does something), where the Tone tab has Bright Gain (which is the same as Gain on the Ideal tab) and also a Normal Gain that doesn't do anything.

Maybe just remove the Normal Gain and just have "Gain" on both the Ideal and Tone tabs to make things easier ?

Thanks for the clarification though, much appreciated.
 
bread said:
OK, I think I understand. It's just that the Ideal tab only has Gain (which does something), where the Tone tab has Bright Gain (which is the same as Gain on the Ideal tab) and also a Normal Gain that doesn't do anything.

Maybe just remove the Normal Gain and just have "Gain" on both the Ideal and Tone tabs to make things easier ?

Thanks for the clarification though, much appreciated.
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Both controls are there intentionally, so there won't be any removing ;)

Both controls actually DO do something... I'm not knowledgeable enough to explain it, but I think @Joe Bfstplk might be able to shed some light on it for you.

I guess maybe you could consider the Ideal page only having one control as a bug... But maybe not?
 
unix-guy said:
Both controls are there intentionally, so there won't be any removing ;)

Both controls actually DO do something... I'm not knowledgeable enough to explain it, but I think @Joe Bfstplk might be able to shed some light on it for you.

I guess maybe you could consider the Ideal page only having one control as a bug... But maybe not?
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The conrtols interact. When you go into one channel (either one) and turn the unused channel's volume up close to max, it starts to scoop out the low mids and rob some lows.
GettyImages-907348-e1644277682598.jpg
This tends to clean up the sound quite a bit. The channels on the old tweeds were labeled "INSTRUMENT" and "MICROPHONE" instead of "BRIGHT" and "NORMAL", respectively, since that was the original intent - to plug both into the amp and get a cleanish tone at a reasonable volume.
 
Joe Bfstplk said:
The conrtols interact. When you go into one channel (either one) and turn the unused channel's volume up close to max, it starts to scoop out the low mids and rob some lows.
View attachment 108944
This tends to clean up the sound quite a bit. The channels on the old tweeds were labeled "INSTRUMENT" and "MICROPHONE" instead of "BRIGHT" and "NORMAL", respectively, since that was the original intent - to plug both into the amp and get a cleanish tone at a reasonable volume.
Click to expand...

Thank you for the explanation, I'll have another listen, but to be honest when I thought it wasn't doing anything I stopped listening. I'll definately try again.
 
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