Axe-Fx III Firmware Release Version 16.00 "Cygnus"

It's normal it's not shown on the Authentic page.
But I thought if it's on the Ideal page, you would be able to use it.
AFAIK Friedmans don't have a bright switch either but if I turn it on, I can hear the change.
 
It's normal it's not shown on the Authentic page.
But I thought if it's on the Ideal page, you would be able to use it.
AFAIK Friedmans don't have a bright switch either but if I turn it on, I can hear the change.
Yup, it used to work that way now that I think about it. Bright switched turned on?
 
Yep.
Turned on the bright switch and turned the value of the cap up to the max - no (audible) change
 
If you gave me two guitars, one with cygnus-sound and one with ares-sound, and ask me, with which I want to play a gig tonight, cygnus would always be my first choice - even in a blind test.
 
I probably have a strange method for this that's become a kind of ritual because I have unmedicated OCD.
Whatever amp I want to use, but particularly if it's a clean amp, I put a distortion in front, then pick the IR based on the high response I want. Besides, I might actually want to use some distortion or fuzz later.
I chose the York 5153 because it has the least negative out of phase sound so many IRs have, like comb filtering that's impossible to get rid of.
I don't use MPT, they sound weird when mixing IRs.
On mixing IRs, I move them off 0.0mm because that number and 33 are annoying and I see them everywhere. 33 333 3333 3333
Just kidding, it's because one or the other will do better in front or sometimes like with the 57m-3 IR for some reason it didn't auto-trim on import.
So I align them not to be perfect because you lose highs, but either to a specific mid response like to harmonize with a snare you like, or to get more highs if the amp is darker. There's an absolutely huge variety of tones in slight alignment adjustments, but usually the closer together the less highs and more mids. It's better than HPF/LPF most of the time, which has it's own phase issues.

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I usually start with one of the first five 57 IRs to get the overall frequency response I want, then add in any other mic that harmonizes and doesn't have comb-filtering phasy tone when solo'd. That way you can pan for stereo, or know one or the other will be great on it's own.
The other reason I chose to use just one cab is because I have over 20GB+ of IRs that I've spent countless dollars on over the years (plus kemper profiles, fugggggg)... I've had enough. I revolted against myself and York won for having clean IRs with little or no comb sound., plus the EVH 20w speakers are good at everything.
Thank you for the detailed explanation of your workflow, I’m definitely going to try this!
 
I like the York stuff in the factory cabs, but I've been using ML stuff for years and settled on one of the Mega djent IRs mixed with one of the factory Zilla IRs a while back. But that ML pack is pretty old at this point, and I have no clue how much actual variation there is in the IR shooting process, or if I should just stick with what's been working.
Those factory York cabs were shot with an old method, his new stuff is even better! If you want to try out his new stuff he has a $1 mesa pack that is definitely worth it :)
 
No, I dont think so. There are changes in the dynamics between amps that are much more pronounced now that I believe may occasionallyrequire tweaking whether the amp is intentionally reset or not. ..but SO worth it in the end....
OK, thank you. So just some little homework and then we can really kick ass...;)
 
mix 05 gang checking in

I like mix 01, but 05 hits a really nice spot for me..sounds huge

that pack is easily my favorite of all the irs I've tried
Perfect , thank you. I have been trying different mixes and singles, with good results as well, and I’m interested in what has been working for others.
 
One thing you can try is edging up your guitar’s Input Level in the I/O menu to make sure it’s “tickling the red” enough. Having a solid input signal will definitely add some juiciness into your tone. FWIW, I raised mine to 61% for a guitar with lower output pickups and it made a huge difference.

To everyone else, is there an input meter that peaks at “ideal input signal level,” or are you guys just watching the input meter on the front panel and estimating the right amount of “red tickle?”
I have a new found love of utility pedals and clean boosts because the Axe takes them so well and needs it bad sometimes. I love Jackson Audio's Prism and Bloom, ThorpyFX's Heavy Water, any overdrive (ODI, Plumes, Ages, etc) for a preEQ and boost clean or colored. It adds spice as desired and drives the front end of the amps. I'm currently affixed to the Hipower amp because it sounds so damn good. Picked up a Daily Driver this weekend and it's the bees knees.

I set my input level to 50% and never touch it because most of my guitars just tickle it. I boost the signal if required but if you boost the signal into the axe, say into a clean amp like the Hipower, and adjust the boost level so that the input signal light just tickles and then totally saturates completely red, you will hear a difference and I would suggest that you familiarize yourself with how the input level of your guitar affects how the amps are driven.
 
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I like the York stuff in the factory cabs, but I've been using ML stuff for years and settled on one of the Mega djent IRs mixed with one of the factory Zilla IRs a while back. But that ML pack is pretty old at this point, and I have no clue how much actual variation there is in the IR shooting process, or if I should just stick with what's been working.
I've found the ML IRs to be very bassy and loud with Cygnus. I'm with @johnnypig I always seem to comeback to YA and the 5153 is a pretty sweet cab and it's not a V30.
 
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