Axe FX 3 and FM3 tone difference and it is not subtle in my setup - SOLVED

Rex said:
Did you make that cable using CA-0446 cable from Best-Tronics? If so, open the connectors and trim back that thin clack layer on the dielectric. It looks like it should be an insulator, but it conducts current. It can cause the problem you experienced.
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Thanks! I will check out my no doubt sloppy soldering. LOL.

It is from LAKE CABLE AVB20UGC 20 AWG low capacitance wire.
 
Lkdog said:
I had two guitar cables. Exactly the same (same wire, same neutrik connectors).
The one I just made up and terminated is causing the issue. Have no idea why. (Probably need to check if I have a bad solder connection) When I put that one on the AXE FX3 it had the same rolling off effect.
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If it’s Mogami cable, the problem is very likely to be the inner black plastic sheath used to reduce handling noise. It’s partially conductive and, if it’s not completely stripped away, can cause a partial short that reduces the highs drastically.

This is documented on Mogami’s site in a FAQ IIRC and a couple other sites.

And, Cliff was right again. Always check the cable first.
 
Greg Ferguson said:
If it’s Mogami cable, the problem is very likely to be the inner black plastic sheath used to reduce handling noise. It’s partially conductive and, if it’s not completely stripped away, can cause a partial short that reduces the highs drastically.

This is documented on Mogami’s site in a FAQ IIRC and a couple other sites.

And, Cliff was right again. Always check the cable first.
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Thanks. Going to rework the cable connection. I am sure my screw up.

Was really happy with the first one I made up. Great clarity.
 
Reterminated the cable. (A real PITA as you noted). It sounds pretty much identical now.
:D

Makes me wonder how I got the first cable right when I made it up last year.
Great wire once you get it going.

Thanks again everybody.
 
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Lkdog said:
Reterminated the cable. (A real PITA as you noted). It sounds pretty much identical now.
:D

Makes me wonder how I got the first cable right when I made it it up last year.
Great wire once you get it going.

Thanks again everybody.
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If you have an X-Acto knife or something similar, you can cut away the offending piece of plastic without undoing the termination.
 
Greg Ferguson said:
Or you could cut through everything. Be careful doing it after the fact.
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Be careful, sure... but you just need to trim away a little bit from the end of the center conductor. No need to go through the dielectric. Use the cutting edge of a pointy blade.
 
Chromatizm said:
You can always go George L's!
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That’s exactly why I made a bunch of patch cables using the Mogami cable. I’d been using George L’s wire for years but saw comments saying Mogami was better. After making the cables and testing there was no improvement and the hassle wasn’t worth it.

I’ve used George L’s since it was originally released years ago with only two or three acting up after 20 years (?) and those were fixed by unscrewing the end, rotating it 90° and reattaching it.
 
^^^^^^ I will be getting pre assembled in the future. I do not mind basic soldering for my guitar pickups and switches and wiring, etc.

The Neutrik connectors were also a PITA to solder.

I like this wire and the cables in the end, but more work than I want to do.

But the conductive jacket thing was a new one to me. Having it kind of work but cutting off the high frequencies was weird. Usually a connection works or not.

Oh well- I learned something and it all sounds great now.
 
Lkdog said:
The Neutrik connectors were also a PITA to solder.
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Actually, Neutriks are pretty easy to solder, if you do the right prep work.

Find something to hold the connector while you work. Prep each terminal with a glob of solder. Strip the cable as they show in their illustration, and tin the wires. Now you can tack the wires to the connector in a few seconds.
 
Rex said:
Actually, Neutriks are pretty easy to solder, if you do the right prep work.

Find something to hold the connector while you work. Prep each terminal with a glob of solder. Strip the cable as they show in their illustration, and tin the wires. Now you can tack the wires to the connector in a few seconds.
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Yeah, I do all of that. Still was a PITA. I would say I can solder barely well enough to not have to pay someone else to do the work. LOL
 
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Highly recommend you at-home cable makers give Belden 8412 and 9778 a shot. They both have a fantastic clarity and tightness to the low end that I haven't heard anywhere else.
 
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