axe 2 global eq? New axe 2 not amazing, yet?

Sammetal91 said:
that is unusual. I think It's the normalization jdoll was talking about. Hmmm... so It's acting like a compressor?
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Yes, or more like expanding quiet/low-level signals. This is with no compressors in the grid. I posted about it over the weekend on the technical questions thread.
 
Fwiw input normalization or not, I'm getting incredible dynamic range out of mine, however my pickups are only wound to high 6k low 7k
 
Sammetal91 said:
Huh.... I wonder if there's anything on the manual about this.
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I think below might be what I'm experiencing. On my unit, it's not subtle. Almost like those auto-gain features on camcorders.

p12 of the manual states:

"The Axe-Fx II uses digitally controlled potentiometers to operate as a unity-gain device irrespective of the input trim controls. Simply set the input trims with the LED input meters and you are done. Another benefit of this technique is that Amp and Drive blocks are unaffected by trim settings."

To get unity gain irrespective of the input trim controls, I wonder if it is auto-boosting low level signals?
 
cinealta said:
I think below might be what I'm experiencing. On my unit, it's not subtle. Almost like those auto-gain features on camcorders.

p12 of the manual states:

"The Axe-Fx II uses digitally controlled potentiometers to operate as a unity-gain device irrespective of the input trim controls. Simply set the input trims with the LED input meters and you are done. Another benefit of this technique is that Amp and Drive blocks are unaffected by trim settings."

To get unity gain irrespective of the input trim controls, I wonder if it is auto-boosting low level signals?
Click to expand...

That would be the exact opposite of what unity gain is meant to accomplish. All unity gain means is that, whatever level your pickups put out is the level that will hit the grid, irrespective of what the input level is set at. The input level is simply there to maximize a/d conversion, and has NO effect on the level of the signal hitting the grid.

Guys, you are basing all this speculation on the behavior of some of the presets. The beauty of the axe is that it remains true to the character of your guitar. Make your own patches and tailor them for your guitar and your set up.
 
cinealta said:
I think below might be what I'm experiencing. On my unit, it's not subtle. Almost like those auto-gain features on camcorders.

p12 of the manual states:

"The Axe-Fx II uses digitally controlled potentiometers to operate as a unity-gain device irrespective of the input trim controls. Simply set the input trims with the LED input meters and you are done. Another benefit of this technique is that Amp and Drive blocks are unaffected by trim settings."

To get unity gain irrespective of the input trim controls, I wonder if it is auto-boosting low level signals?
Click to expand...

yeah I read that too. So is it basically saying the input knob is there just for show?
 
chapelizod said:
That would be the exact opposite of what unity gain is meant to accomplish. All unity gain means is that, whatever level your pickups put out is the level that will hit the grid, irrespective of what the input level is set at. The input level is simply there to maximize a/d conversion, and has NO effect on the level of the signal hitting the grid.

Guys, you are basing all this speculation on the behavior of some of the presets. The beauty of the axe is that it remains true to the character of your guitar. Make your own patches and tailor them for your guitar and your set up.
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interesting point. Have you guys checked the patch to see if there's a compressor or something of that like in the matrix or hidden somewhere?
 
There is no automatic anything. The LEDs monitor the signal from the A/D before the data is processed. The LEDs indicate the true signal power at the input. It's irrelevant anyways because you don't even know what the scale on the LEDs is. It's like saying my oil pressure is high because the gauge is at 3/4 scale and the gauge has no scale, just L and H.

The speculation is just simply wrong, false, incorrect and a bunch of other adjectives.
 
FractalAudio said:
There is no automatic anything. The LEDs monitor the signal from the A/D before the data is processed. The LEDs indicate the true signal power at the input. It's irrelevant anyways because you don't even know what the scale on the LEDs is. It's like saying my oil pressure is high because the gauge is at 3/4 scale and the gauge has no scale, just L and H.

The speculation is just simply wrong, false, incorrect and a bunch of other adjectives.
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Thanks Cliff. Just really trying to figure out the technical explanation for what I am experiencing. Not meaning to be argumentative, just asking for clarification from an educational standpoint. Thanks for your expertise.

What is the scale of the 4 input lights (I'm assuming it's log)? Thanks.

Also, when you say that the LEDs indicate the true signal power at the input, how can it also be that the LEDs monitor the signal from the A/D? Because, aren't you using a programmable gain amplifier (digital potentiometer), after the input but before the A/D, to up-scale the input signal to the input range of the A/D converter (unity gain) for optimum conversion?

Thanks again for your advice.
 
The LEDs measure the true power at the input to the A/D. Before the A/D is a variable-gain amp that you set with the Input Trim controls. There is no dynamic processing before or after the A/D.

I don't know what to tell you. Perhaps it's just not the right product for you.
 
cinealta said:
Because, aren't you using a programmable gain amplifier (digital potentiometer), after the input but before the A/D, to up-scale the input signal to the input range of the A/D converter (unity gain) for optimum conversion?

Thanks again for your advice.
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Unity gain has nothing to do with the "up-scaling" of the input signal for the a/d converter. Unity gain is the fact that the signal is returned to it's original level AFTER the a/d.

Rather than questioning the hardware and conjecturing upon supposedly hidden flaws, i would suggest that you'll find it more productive to focus on how you're dialing in your sounds. post your patches, give more info on how you are approaching creating your presets, make some sound clips and solicit the advice of others on how to dial in and set up your patches to your liking.
 
Something is definitely wrong if just touching the strings causes the green LEDs to light. I just tested here and I can only light the green LEDs if I actually create some sound.

My guess is you've got something hooked up wrong. Perhaps you have the input configured wrong and you are feeding back from your DAW or something.
 
If you want more gain there is a very handy setting in the advanced tab called "Input Trim" that will add or subtract gain. The new models respond much more lime the real amp. Something I noticed immediately having been used to the Ultra which I would venture a guess has a bit more gain available than it's real world counterparts. Also available as a global setting as well called "amp gain" (thanks for the tips Cliff)

The Master Volume is especially reactive. Extreme sponginess akin to a cranked tube amp is very very fun and feels just like the real deal without the hearing loss.

With regard to the low end boominess some have mentioned. There are several ways to address this. The boominess is likely due to differences in setups and guitars from that which the preset was programmed with (hence the age old problem with preprogrammed presets)I experienced this on a few presets and was immediately able to compensate by lowering the 125hz fader in the amp blocks 8 band graphic. This is just one of many ways but keep in mind that the same preset will have different results for most people. I can't remember ever not having to tweak some aspect of a preset on every piece of gear I've owned. Nature of the beast.
 
FractalAudio said:
Something is definitely wrong if just touching the strings causes the green LEDs to light. I just tested here and I can only light the green LEDs if I actually create some sound.

My guess is you've got something hooked up wrong. Perhaps you have the input configured wrong and you are feeding back from your DAW or something.
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+1 on the DAW. They bug out and do weird stuff sometimes. Try restarting your computer or DAW and see if there's any change.

This isn't what cliff is talking about, but try giving it a shot if everything is connected right.
 
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I generally turn down the bass when I'm using my neck pickup to tighten up the bass, or put either a Parametric EQ with shelving filter for low frequencies or use a High-pass Filter block in front of the amp if I'm not using a Drive block.

Once you get the tight bass response, then you can boost selected frequencies as-needed post-amp via an EQ block.

I don't play high-gain stuff, but I do occasionally use medium-high gain models at more moderate settings for lead stuff and have no problem dialing out the bass. You might end up turning the bass down to 2 and then still turn down the low freq's on the amp's GEQ and think "this is wrong!" but if it sounds right, that's all that matters.
 
you guys rule, Ive got fun homework this weekend (while on call grrrrrrrrrrr). I do use active pickups on some of my guitars I will play around, start some patches from scratch etc. thanks again, will let you all know, I really do appreciate the help, Im sure this is the greatest box ever, just need to dial in the basics then let the mayhem begin (I hope)!
 
Process of elimination; Almost surely not the culprit, but it is still a variable. - Try a different cord, just to eliminate the most simple of variables.
 
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