Presets MASTER THREAD - AustinBuddy 1000+ LIVEGOLD TonePack for Cygnus X2

Third party presets and packs for Fractal Audio products
Depends on what you did in that preset. :)
@Rex I figured out the issue. I think it's something to do with monitoring out of Output 2. I have selected Output 2 to copy Output 1 so I can use the 1/4" outputs for monitoring via Output 2 on all presets. As the Live Gold presets have the Output 2 block inserted in the chain, I am getting the level from that block which is -18 dB or so. How do I get the level of output 2 up to match output 1? Should I change Output 1 back to -10 dB?
 
@Rex I figured out the issue. I think it's something to do with monitoring out of Output 2. I have selected Output 2 to copy Output 1 so I can use the 1/4" outputs for monitoring via Output 2 on all presets. As the Live Gold presets have the Output 2 block inserted in the chain, I am getting the level from that block which is -18 dB or so. How do I get the level of output 2 up to match output 1? Should I change Output 1 back to -10 dB?
If you just remove the Out2 block, its level will jump up when you Copy Output 1.
 
If you just remove the Out2 block, its level will jump up when you Copy Output 1.
Thanks so much, I'll get to work removing it from as many presets as possible. Might wait for the revisions and extra bank. Loving the tones and all the thought going into this pack. I'm coming from AX8 (Axe II and Ultra before that!) and feel that the FM3 is a significant upgrade.
 
If you just remove the Out2 block, its level will jump up when you Copy Output 1.

But the level of the preset will also jump in general. I tried eliminating out 2 because I need both levels to be the same and to include cab block and the level of output 1 increased immensely
 
But the level of the preset will also jump in general. I tried eliminating out 2 because I need both levels to be the same and to include cab block and the level of output 1 increased immensely
The presence or absence of Out2 has no effect on the level of Out1. You must have changed something else.
 
The presence or absence of Out2 has no effect on the level of Out1. You must have changed something else.

I’ll check again... but I’m almost sure that happened in every preset I tried

EDIT: you're right REX... I was using out 2 when editing. Sorry for the mis information
 
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For those of you who want to convert your FM3 Live Gold TonePack Banks 1 & 2 now over to your Axe-Fx III while we wait for the final banks from me for that unit, I just did a post in another FM3 thread that walks through how to do it.

Here's the post. Remember, do not use FracTool or FractalBot to try to convert or load the presets from FM3 to Axe-Fx III. Just use Axe-Edit III's Manage Preset function (Preset Manager).


https://forum.fractalaudio.com/thre...gold-pack-opinions-please.163296/post-1965124

I'm about 45% done with the Bank 3 presets for the FM3 - The ENGLs, the VH4 and Herbie Diezels, Carvin, Cornford, extra Uberschall, and 5153/EVH amps (with Mark Holcomb presets) are done and I'll get the all Fractal FAS amps done in next 48 hours. Still have all the Mesa Boogies to do -- it will be a Mesa Boogie week! Then some miscellaneous presets just for single coils Strats & Teles, plus an electric into acoustic simulator, etc. See what I can fit in.
 
Because you guys are honest, honorable forum users, wanted to call to your attention some forum user actions I've become aware of.

Several forum users have contacted me saying they have been solicited by other forum users to "go into together" to buy the Live Gold TonePack.

Be aware of a few things.

1. The TonePack purchase will only be in one persons' name. It's like a user license that way. That person controls the account. Only that person can get future Tonepack updates.

So, if you share your user account info with someone you don't know well, you may be putting your other downloads or password at risk, and you have to depend on another person to get any future Tonepack updates.

2. It's possible (unconfirmed) these parties are making money on this for themselves (and arguably at my expense). Meaning, you may think you are splitting the Tonepack cost with them, but they may have four other people paying them half of a TonePack price, too, and they will share with others and keep the balance.

So buyer beware -- caveat empor as they say. I've let the Forum Admins know about this issue as well.

You can contact me if you have been contacted by a forum member about this.

One reason I love this forum/community so much (and don't spend any time Gear Page) is the community spirit and helping each other. I realize times are tough for many (which is one reason why these presets are on sale through August, for less than the price of a pedal) and I'm hoping this is just a few bad apples, or perhaps even people with good intentions but who shouldn't do this, and we can move past it.

Thanks. I' uncomfortable posting this, but feel like it may prevent someone from having a bad experience they may regret later so feel obligated to go public.

(Alright then....back to Bank 3 preset making!)
 
Hi Everyone!

Today is July 3rd, and I have been working on this special TonePack for the FM3 for a loooong time. And it's SO worth it.

It's like a new & improved successor to the old AX8/Axe-Fx II 1000+ Dream Rigs, but with elements of the 1400+ Naked Amps for Axe-Fx III too.

I call it the "Live Gold" TonePack - because I approached these presets to make them all sound like a real amp in the room.

To do that, I used an Atomic NEO CLR about -10 to 12 feet away from me, cranked up to stage volume/LOUD. So I dialed in what I would want to hear on stage.

My beta testers tell me these are the best sounding presets I ever made! I humbly agree!

I'll post a video tutorial walking through all the design and details very soon. I expect a few well-known Fractal friends I shared Banks 1 and 2 with will soon make some demo videos, which we'll post here once done.

If you have an FM3, you are gonna LOVE this. It will open your FM3 up, I promise. The download zip file includes:

Bank 1 - the "Marshall style" bank. It includes presets of models based on amps by Marshall, Friedman, Splawn, Hook, Bogner and others.

Bank 2 - presets based on Fenders, Vox and Vintage Amps, Class-A Amps, and Boutique amps.

Plus it includes a README Release notes, a preset list, and an FM3 layout 7 page and screen shot so you can set up the amp controllers -- you will want to access the CS2 AMP BOOST switch ALL THE TIME, it sounds so good!

Bank 3 is not yet available (it is a work progress) but will be later in July/August - it is included in the price. Bank 3 covers the modern and prog. metal amps as well as miscellaneous presets. As a nice bonus, the greatr Mark Holcomb of Periphery collaborated with me in my studio here helped me dial in a few 5150 amp model presets using his PRS guitars.

It covers at least four sounds from clean to low to rhythm to high/lead, hitting almost every guitar amp model in the FM3 (but not bass).

What's more, there will be an Axe-Fx III version eventually, and FM3 buyers will ALSO get access to these same three banks of presets, but re-dialed in for the Axe-Fx III. That will take a few months but will be added to your download file once done and released.

I'll post a down&dirty tutorial video below in next 24-48 hours that explains the preset layouts, but you get four scenes 1-4 dialed in for humbuckers, plus scenes 5-8 allow for single coil use. All presets have a wah, drive 2 block, delay and reverb, and many have other effects as well.

And best of all -- the 1000+ LIVE GOLD FM3 TonePack also on introductory sale until August for $79, and then this fall will go back to the normal price of $99.


You can buy this TonePack now in the shop at www.austinbuddy.com.




View attachment 69635

Thanks everyone for your patience, you will be very happy with these presets and their comprehensive design! We'll use this thread for TonePack comments and updates, etc. Cheers and Happy 4th!

Here's a new video by Burg (Australia's mighty Brett Kingman) on the new TonePack - be sure to check out the Mark Holcomb (Periphery) presets coming in Bank 3 Brett used at the 7:00 mark to craft a little modern music!






Adding to thread: here is the introduction video about what's in it and how to set up the FM3, etc. Other videos like tone demos will be posted on my YouTube channel as completed.


Buddy, I bought the Gold Pack for the FM3 and several other bundles from you, but I haven't loaded much of the Live Gold Pack yet. My concern (actually for the other bundles as well) is the instruction or suggestion to use +4.8 dBU. If I do that and start loading presets, will I need to go back through the FAS factory presets and adjust the amp block output Level control for each preset to compensate for the global change from -10 dBv to +4 dBu? If I left the unit at -10 dBv, would the sound of your presets suffer? I am presently using it in a home studio with a Mark of the Unicorn interface running the ASIO driver. Many thanks!
 
Buddy, I bought the Gold Pack for the FM3 and several other bundles from you, but I haven't loaded much of the Live Gold Pack yet. My concern (actually for the other bundles as well) is the instruction or suggestion to use +4.8 dBU. If I do that and start loading presets, will I need to go back through the FAS factory presets and adjust the amp block output Level control for each preset to compensate for the global change from -10 dBv to +4 dBu? If I left the unit at -10 dBv, would the sound of your presets suffer? I am presently using it in a home studio with a Mark of the Unicorn interface running the ASIO driver. Many thanks!
Jack - my presets are leveled pretty much the same way the Factory ones are. In facts, i worked with another beta team member on leveling Bank B and C of the firmware 11 Axe-Fx III Factory presets.

The +4 and -10 setting options are to optimize with your playback system. They have NO effect on the tone of the presets. It just determines the output level coming out of the XLRs, think of -10db as "pad." If you are using pro-grade equipment (for example, I am using Universal Audio Apollos and also Atomic NEO CLRs), the +4db setting is recommended -- then you dial the Output 1 to optimize to signal level leaving your unit. I know the +4 db is right for me, because the digital S/PDIF signal matches and if I use -10 I can't get a good, song Axe-Fx or FM3 signal to show up on my console. if using FRFRs, you want to hit them HOT and then use the input knob on the FRFRs (if available to make sure the signal won't clip), then dial the volume on your FRFR Output.

If you are using consumer grade gear or interfaces for your DAW, then the +4db setting can be too hot and that's why the -10 option is there. Two things about this. One, is ideally both the factory presets and my presets should be leaving the outs of the unit at around -12 db (average) as read on a digital mixer. That's good -- it's hot but far enough away from the dreaded "O" zero point at the top if a digital mixer's channel matters where a sound will distort and clip. If this were analog gear using old school VU meters, then for that, their equivalent is the zero mark, and the VU needle will hover around zero a sustained chord, but move into the red from time to time.

Second is that some "pro" gear out there -- the Scarlett Focusrite preamps comes to mind -- has built it and "pre-set" gain added to mic preamps that you cannot dial out!!! People were plugin XLR cables from their Axe-Ax into a Scarlet Focusrite XLR input and complaining "the signal is too hot, it's your presets." No it wasn't. It was the Scarlett adding extra gain to the signal. Once those folks learned can by pass the XLR preamp added gain by using the TRS 1/4" jacks, then all was good and levels were working as expected (another classic example of "ya gotta read the manual!").

So to summarize, the +4 db and -10db have no effect on the actual tone/sound, just the loudness. But loudness can affect how you hear the sound (Flectcher Munson effect) as well. Hope this helps some?
 
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Because you guys are honest, honorable forum users, wanted to call to your attention some forum user actions I've become aware of.

Several forum users have contacted me saying they have been solicited by other forum users to "go into together" to buy the Live Gold TonePack.

Be aware of a few things.

1. The TonePack purchase will only be in one persons' name. It's like a user license that way. That person controls the account. Only that person can get future Tonepack updates.

So, if you share your user account info with someone you don't know well, you may be putting your other downloads or password at risk, and you have to depend on another person to get any future Tonepack updates.

2. It's possible (unconfirmed) these parties are making money on this for themselves (and arguably at my expense). Meaning, you may think you are splitting the Tonepack cost with them, but they may have four other people paying them half of a TonePack price, too, and they will share with others and keep the balance.

So buyer beware -- caveat empor as they say. I've let the Forum Admins know about this issue as well.

You can contact me if you have been contacted by a forum member about this.

One reason I love this forum/community so much (and don't spend any time Gear Page) is the community spirit and helping each other. I realize times are tough for many (which is one reason why these presets are on sale through August, for less than the price of a pedal) and I'm hoping this is just a few bad apples, or perhaps even people with good intentions but who shouldn't do this, and we can move past it.

Thanks. I' uncomfortable posting this, but feel like it may prevent someone from having a bad experience they may regret later so feel obligated to go public.

(Alright then....back to Bank 3 preset making!)
This just takes money directly out of @austinbuddy 's pocket. He puts hundreds of hours into each tone pack, and the results speak for themselves. Do the right thing.
 
This just takes money directly out of @austinbuddy 's pocket. He puts hundreds of hours into each tone pack, and the results speak for themselves. Do the right thing.

sadly there are things like this all the time , i have got into some heated discussions . Some people see sharing tones , profiles IRs whatever totally acceptable
they come from the era of downloading movies games music from pirated sites They actual don’t see anything wrong w it
those same people will see nothing wrong and expect you to give everything free
 
Jack - my presets are leveled pretty much the same way the Factory ones are. In facts, i worked with another beta team member on leveling Bank B and C of the firmware 11 Axe-Fx III Factory presets.

The +4 and -10 setting options are to optimize with your playback system. They have NO effect on the tone of the presets. It just determines the output level coming out of the XLRs, think of -10db as "pad." If you are using pro-grade equipment (for example, I am using Universal Audio Apollos and also Atomic NEO CLRs), the +4db setting is recommended -- then you dial the Output 1 to optimize to signal level leaving your unit. I know the +4 db is right for me, because the digital S/PDIF signal matches and if I use -10 I can't get a good, song Axe-Fx or FM3 signal to show up on my console. if using FRFRs, you want to hit them HOT and then use the input knob on the FRFRs (if available to make sure the signal won't clip), then dial the volume on your FRFR Output.

If you are using consumer grade gear or interfaces for your DAW, then the +4db setting can be too hot and that's why the -10 option is there. Two things about this. One, is ideally both the factory presets and my presets should be leaving the outs of the unit at around -12 db (average) as read on a digital mixer. That's good -- it's hot but far enough away from the dreaded "O" zero point at the top if a digital mixer's channel matters where a sound will distort and clip. If this were analog gear using old school VU meters, then for that, their equivalent is the zero mark, and the VU needle will hover around zero a sustained chord, but move into the red from time to time.

Second is that some "pro" gear out there -- the Scarlett Focusrite preamps comes to mind -- has built it and "pre-set" gain added to mic preamps that you cannot dial out!!! People were plugin XLR cables from their Axe-Ax into a Scarlet Focusrite XLR input and complaining "the signal is too hot, it's your presets." No it wasn't. It was the Scarlett adding extra gain to the signal. Once those folks learned can by pass the XLR preamp added gain by using the TRS 1/4" jacks, then all was good and levels were working as expected (another classic example of "gotta read the manual!).

So to summarize, the +4 db and -10db have no effect on the actual tone/sound, just the loudness. But loudness can affect how you hear the sound (Flectcher Munson effect) as well. Hope this helps some?

Buddy, thank you very much for the detailed reply and excellent information. I am going to set my unit to +4dBu and adust Output 1 as you suggested. I had already been setting the mixer inputs to -12dB and that has worked really well for me. Thanks again!
 
sadly there are things like this all the time , i have got into some heated discussions . Some people see sharing tones , profiles IRs whatever totally acceptable
they come from the era of downloading movies games music from pirated sites They actual don’t see anything wrong w it
those same people will see nothing wrong and expect you to give everything free
This.

Sadly, some folks think that, if something is easy to steal, that makes it okay to steal it. If a little old lady forgot her purse on a park bench, these are the kind of people who would have no problem making that purse disappear.
 
Jack - my presets are leveled pretty much the same way the Factory ones are. In facts, i worked with another beta team member on leveling Bank B and C of the firmware 11 Axe-Fx III Factory presets.

The +4 and -10 setting options are to optimize with your playback system. They have NO effect on the tone of the presets. It just determines the output level coming out of the XLRs, think of -10db as "pad." If you are using pro-grade equipment (for example, I am using Universal Audio Apollos and also Atomic NEO CLRs), the +4db setting is recommended -- then you dial the Output 1 to optimize to signal level leaving your unit. I know the +4 db is right for me, because the digital S/PDIF signal matches and if I use -10 I can't get a good, song Axe-Fx or FM3 signal to show up on my console. if using FRFRs, you want to hit them HOT and then use the input knob on the FRFRs (if available to make sure the signal won't clip), then dial the volume on your FRFR Output.

If you are using consumer grade gear or interfaces for your DAW, then the +4db setting can be too hot and that's why the -10 option is there. Two things about this. One, is ideally both the factory presets and my presets should be leaving the outs of the unit at around -12 db (average) as read on a digital mixer. That's good -- it's hot but far enough away from the dreaded "O" zero point at the top if a digital mixer's channel matters where a sound will distort and clip. If this were analog gear using old school VU meters, then for that, their equivalent is the zero mark, and the VU needle will hover around zero a sustained chord, but move into the red from time to time.

Second is that some "pro" gear out there -- the Scarlett Focusrite preamps comes to mind -- has built it and "pre-set" gain added to mic preamps that you cannot dial out!!! People were plugin XLR cables from their Axe-Ax into a Scarlet Focusrite XLR input and complaining "the signal is too hot, it's your presets." No it wasn't. It was the Scarlett adding extra gain to the signal. Once those folks learned can by pass the XLR preamp added gain by using the TRS 1/4" jacks, then all was good and levels were working as expected (another classic example of "gotta read the manual!).

So to summarize, the +4 db and -10db have no effect on the actual tone/sound, just the loudness. But loudness can affect how you hear the sound (Flectcher Munson effect) as well. Hope this helps some?

Buddy, thanks again for the detailed reply. I am obviously still doing something wrong and maybe you readily can identify what that is.
The FM3 Quickstart Setup Guide suggested that if using output 2 (what I am doing because I am using ¼” jacks), to copy output 1 to output 2. I had done this, but what I failed to read was that the option only works when the Output 2 block is not present in the preset. Your preset included an Output 2 block, so when I removed that block the perceived volume was like double. What is very puzzling though is that when using +4 dBu on the audio interface and the FM3, I have to turn my monitor input up from about 10 o’clock to 2 o’clock. When I go back into the setup of both devices and change them back to -10 dBv, the monitor signal just about blows me out of the room. It seems like it should be just the opposite to me.

Also, I see that my Input 1 Pad in the FM3 is set to 6 dB and the Input 2 Pad is set to 0 dB. The Output 2 pad is set to 0 dB. Is that what your inputs are set to? Any other suggestions would be greatly appreciated. If none, I know that this is not your problem so no worries. Thanks again.
 
Buddy, thanks again for the detailed reply. I am obviously still doing something wrong and maybe you readily can identify what that is.
The FM3 Quickstart Setup Guide suggested that if using output 2 (what I am doing because I am using ¼” jacks), to copy output 1 to output 2. I had done this, but what I failed to read was that the option only works when the Output 2 block is not present in the preset. Your preset included an Output 2 block, so when I removed that block the perceived volume was like double. What is very puzzling though is that when using +4 dBu on the audio interface and the FM3, I have to turn my monitor input up from about 10 o’clock to 2 o’clock. When I go back into the setup of both devices and change them back to -10 dBv, the monitor signal just about blows me out of the room. It seems like it should be just the opposite to me.

Also, I see that my Input 1 Pad in the FM3 is set to 6 dB and the Input 2 Pad is set to 0 dB. The Output 2 pad is set to 0 dB. Is that what your inputs are set to? Any other suggestions would be greatly appreciated. If none, I know that this is not your problem so no worries. Thanks again.

FM3 Output2 is like Output 3 on the Axe-Fx III - you are supposed to use it with FM3 Out2 hardware knob dimed.

My output 2 level in Setup> I/O > Audio table was set to pad 6 which is factory default but I would not hesitate to raise it up to + 12 or +18 dB if diming the Out2 hardware knob is still not giving you the volume you need from that output.

Another user called to my attention the output2 level is much lower on VU meters than output1 for the same signal. I level presets using output 1 (And actually my Universal Audio Console meters like it was a mixing board).

So dime output 2 and read the below:

From @Admin M@ today:

Out 1 and Out 2 use totally different analog circuitry designs.

As noted in the manual: Output 2 is Stereo, with 1/4” designed for “unity gain” with the knob “wide open"
 
Buddy, thanks again for the detailed reply. I am obviously still doing something wrong and maybe you readily can identify what that is.
The FM3 Quickstart Setup Guide suggested that if using output 2 (what I am doing because I am using ¼” jacks), to copy output 1 to output 2. I had done this, but what I failed to read was that the option only works when the Output 2 block is not present in the preset. Your preset included an Output 2 block, so when I removed that block the perceived volume was like double. What is very puzzling though is that when using +4 dBu on the audio interface and the FM3, I have to turn my monitor input up from about 10 o’clock to 2 o’clock. When I go back into the setup of both devices and change them back to -10 dBv, the monitor signal just about blows me out of the room. It seems like it should be just the opposite to me.

Also, I see that my Input 1 Pad in the FM3 is set to 6 dB and the Input 2 Pad is set to 0 dB. The Output 2 pad is set to 0 dB. Is that what your inputs are set to? Any other suggestions would be greatly appreciated. If none, I know that this is not your problem so no worries. Thanks again.
I don' think I answered all your questions as I am away from my unit. You can always reset your unit to factory defaults and then go in again and fix the wah controller, audio tab, calibrate pedal, etc.
 
I bought the pack and it is really great. For Bank 3 it would be nice to have a preset for a Mesa DR or Mark V with a rather dry in-your-face sound, sort of like the tones on Chevelle's "Wonder What's Next".

Anyway, I'll be patiently waiting for bank 3!
 
I don' think I answered all your questions as I am away from my unit. You can always reset your unit to factory defaults and then go in again and fix the wah controller, audio tab, calibrate pedal, etc.
Thanks for the additional info, Buddy. Yes I had the Output 2 turned up all the way for Unity gain. I am getting enough signal out of the FM3 and into the DAW and my FM3 output block meter and mixer inputs are reading as they should. I just didn't understand why I had to turn up the monitor signal significantly after changing to +4 dBu. If anything, I would have thought that I would have to turn it down. I don't think that this is a FAS or Austin Buddy specific behavior though. I just have a lot of respect for you and value your thoughts, opinions, suggestions, etc. BTW, your Hook preset sounds very good! Thanks again
 
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