Anyone remove rubber feet and end rubber to mount to board?

cragginshred

cragginshred

Fractal Fanatic
I tried the heavy duty velcro to end cap rubber pieces but they don't stick as well as they would to the metal as well as having a flat surface to mount would be nice.
Anyone take those rubber end caps off to mount o a pedal board? And the rubber feet -shallow screw needed (like Ax8) or same one work?
 
If you remove the rubber feet and velcro straight to your board, you will likely block the vent on the bottom and prevent adequate airflow. My solution was to use metal plumbers strap and attach to the board using longer screws. See below image.

img_0415-jpg.91484
 
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Rather than remove them, many of us use a couple layers of 3M's Dual-Lock 250 between the feet on the end. My FM9 is on my Temple Audio Duo 24 board, and I can pick up the entire board and FM9 by the FM9 and shake it and it won't come loose. I've been using this for months without problems. Previously I had my FM3 + FC6 on the same board, and could do the same with either one.

I haven't let the rig ride vertically, only flat, so if you aren't in control of how it'll sit in a vehicle, then you might want to check into changing out the screws for the end bumpers. Getting some that are a little longer will allow you to keep the bumper in place while still screwing the unit down. Read through the previous threads for attaching the FM3 or FM9 to boards and you'll find the information. Also https://forum.fractalaudio.com/threads/lets-see-those-fm9-rigs.176163/post-2195273.
 
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bdrepko said:
If you remove the rubber feet and velcro straight to your board, you will likely block the vent on the bottom and prevent adequate airflow. My solution was to use metal plumbers strap and attach to the board using longer screws. See below image.

img_0415-jpg.91484
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Sorry I cannot see anything strapping the FM9 down
 
Greg Ferguson said:
Rather than remove them, many of us use a couple layers of 3M's Dual-Lock 250 between the feet on the end. My FM9 is on my Temple Audio Duo 24 board, and I can pick up the entire board and FM9 by the FM9 and shake it and it won't come loose. I've been using this for months without problems. Previously I had my FM3 + FC6 on the same board, and could do the same with either one.

I haven't let the rig ride vertically, only flat, so if you aren't in control of how it'll sit in a vehicle, then you might want to check into changing out the screws for the end bumpers. Getting some that are a little longer will allow you to keep the bumper in place while still screwing the unit down. Read through the previous threads for attaching the FM3 or FM9 to boards and you'll find the information. Also https://forum.fractalaudio.com/threads/lets-see-those-fm9-rigs.176163/post-2195273.
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This is the type of dual lock i opted for and what is lacking is the sticking to the rubber end caps. Great design if your not using a board, however 99% of the people that buy these do want to mount them.
 
cragginshred said:
This is the type of dual lock i opted for and what is lacking is the sticking to the rubber end caps. Great design if your not using a board, however 99% of the people that buy these do want to mount them.
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I haven't had a problem getting it to stick to the bumpers. Like I said, I can pick the entire unit up by the FM3, FM6 or FM9 and shake it and have done so many times just to confirm everything is OK, and it has remained solidly attached. I'd hesitate to let it ride vertically in its carry bag for hours in a bumpy vehicle because that'd be cruel and unusual punishment, but for transportation to/from gigs it's been great. And, in a padded hardshell case that keeps the rig from vibrating I think it'd always travel safely.

It's important that you use an extra layer of the Dual-Lock between the bumper and board, so there'd need to be four strips, with the two in-between strips stuck together by their adhesive. That combination is actually a little bit thicker than the indentation between the feet so the modeler rests entirely on the Dual-Lock. Give gravity a day to cure the Dual-Lock adhesive ensure it's got good contact with the bumper and board and it should stick very well.

I'm not sure that 99% of the people want to use them with a board, maybe 99% of the people who participate in the threads related to attaching the units to boards do. The only reason I use a board is to provide some sort of protection of the unit from drunk singers stepping on my connectors, which happened the first time I took my FM3+FC6 out. The board makes the rig a lot heavier and bulkier and otherwise adds little extra utility.
 
I mounted mine on a pedaltrain classic pro using regular velcro and the bumpers removed. I just made sure the bottom vent was between rails on the board so it had room to breath. I did the same thing with my FM3/FC6 combo and it worked fine. So far so good with the FM9.
 
I removed the bumpers and feet. The doubled up 3m was just too wiggly. No thanks. It's way more stable with just 2 pieces coming together on each area.
 
PBGas said:
I removed the bumpers and feet. The doubled up 3m was just too wiggly. No thanks. It's way more stable with just 2 pieces coming together on each area.
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What are you mounting it on? How are you making sure you don't block the bottom vent?

That won't work well on a solid board which I think is what the OP is using...
 
cragginshred said:
I tried the heavy duty velcro to end cap rubber pieces but they don't stick as well as they would to the metal as well as having a flat surface to mount would be nice.
Anyone take those rubber end caps off to mount o a pedal board? And the rubber feet -shallow screw needed (like Ax8) or same one work?
Click to expand...
Yes, but my effects board is a Temple Audio Duo 34, which contains 1 EV-1, and 2 external switches, plus the FM9.

The way my FM9 is attached is via M6/40 ⅜" allen hex head screws, plus #6 thin washers.

If you're hoping to invest in a quality board, the Duo 34 (or smaller if only using the FM9; be sure to measure), the Temple Audio boards are a good choice. They're not cheap if you're adding XLR modules, and a soft gigbag from Studio Slips will set you back as well.

However, the good news is, for anyone who already owns a TA board, I've invested in about 40 spare screws and a lot of extra washers for anyone who might like to try them on their Temple boards.

The hex allen heads require a 3/32" allen hex head wrench to attach the screws to the reverse 4 corners underneath. The FM9 will only take the 4 corners and even FAS says you can't place extras in the center 2 holes.

But if you or anyone needs a set of 4 screws and washers for no charge, I can save you the trouble of trying to find them.
 
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unix-guy said:
What are you mounting it on? How are you making sure you don't block the bottom vent?

That won't work well on a solid board which I think is what the OP is using...
Click to expand...

For sure! I made sure that the underneath was open.
I have it on a Pedaltrain Jr. Max. Side vents are nice and open and the bottom vent is also open.

All good!
 
bleujazz3 said:
Yes, but my effects board is a Temple Audio Duo 34, which contains 1 EV-1 snd 2 external switches, plus the FM9.

The way my FM9 is attached is via M6/40 ⅜" allen hex head screws, plus #6 thin washers.

If you're hoping to invest in a quality board, the Duo 34 (or smaller if only using the FM9; be sure to measure), the Temple Audio boards are a good choice. They're not cheap if you're adding XLR modules, and a soft gigbag from Studio Slips will set you back as well.

However, the good news is, for anyone who already owns a TA board, I've invested in about 40 spare screws and a lot of extra washers for anyone who might like to try them on their Temple boards.

The hex allen heads require a 3/32" allen hex head wrench to attach the screws to the reverse 4 corners underneath. The FM9 will only take the 4 corners and even FAS says you can't place extras in the center 2 holes.

But if you or anyone needs a set of 4 screws and washers for no charge, I can save you the trouble of trying to find them.
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Are you confirming that the screwz that hold the feet on the FM9, FC-12 and EV-1 iz an M6/40?
 
Muzicianist 432 said:
Are you confirming that the screwz that hold the feet on the FM9, FC-12 and EV-1 iz an M6/40?
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Yes. ⅜" ones. They take a 3/32" hex allen head wrench to attach. I have several sets of extras with washers and can send a set to you no charge if you'll PM me your address. Even the wrench as well. I've got several to spare. They work for Temple Audio boards with the perforated holes.

The EV-1 can use it's own 4 corner screws, but the M6/40 makes for neater detail.
 
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bleujazz3 said:
Yes. ⅜" ones. They take a 3/32" hex allen head wrench to attach. I have several sets of extras with washers and can send a set to you no charge if you'll PM me your address. Even the wrench as well. I've got several to spare. They work for Temple Audio boards with the perforated holes.

The EV-1 can use it's own 4 corner screws, but the M6/40 makes for neater detail.
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I appreciate your kindness, thank you.

Though I'm actually looking for a set ov 8 -12 at 1-inch long for the EV-1z and a set ov 4 at 1 1/8-inch long for the FC-12 with a few washerz az well.

I'm likely going to McMaster to find them within the week.
 
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Muzicianist 432 said:
I appreciate your kindness, thank you.

Though I'm actually looking for a set of 8 -12 at 1-inch long for the EV-1z and a set of 4 at 1 1/8-inch long for the FC-12 with a few washerz az well.

I'm likely going to McMaster to find them within the week.
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If you're using a Temple Audio board, the 1" and 1-⅛"will be too long. You'll also need #6 thin zinc-coated or stainless steel washers.

If you've got a separate type of board that has a thicker surface than the Temple Audio, then you could measure that and things would work. You could still use a M6/40 screw, you'd just need a longer length.

To compare, view the length of the original EV-1 and FC-12 screws you removed from the devices. The replacement screws should be no longer than that.

The link below is for a 1" M6/40 screw. There doesn't seem to be one for a 1-⅛" but might be one for a 1-¼".

Click Here

This link is for a 1-¼" M6/40 hex head screw. There were also several other lengths that might work, including ¾" and ⅝".

Click Here
 
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bleujazz3 said:
If you're using a Temple Audio board, the 1" and 1-⅛"will be too long. You'll also need #6 thin zinc-coated or stainless steel washers.

If you've got a separate type of board that has a thicker surface than the Temple Audio, then you could measure that and things would work. You could still use a M6/40 screw, you'd just need a longer length.

To compare, view the length of the original EV-1 and FC-12 screws you removed from the devices. The replacement screws should be no longer than that.

The link below is for a 1" M6/40 screw. There doesn't seem to be one for a 1-⅛" but might be one for a 1-¼".

Click Here

This link is for a 1-¼" M6/40 hex head screw. There were also several other lengths that might work, including ¾" and ⅝".

Click Here
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Very cool, Thanx!

I'm uzing the Gator G-TOUR pedalboard and will likely need similar to OEM screwz just longer.
 
Muzicianist 432 said:
Very cool, Thanx!

I'm uzing the Gator G-TOUR pedalboard and will likely need similar to OEM screwz just longer.
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Yup. The factory screws aren't all that long (want to say, ½"?) so you may not need the longer lengths unless the Gator G-TOUR requires it. The simple solution is to remove the rubber feet and measure the screws. That way, you won't end up buying something that won't fit, or may need extra depth between the Gator board and the FC-12/EV-1s.
 
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