Another Strat bridge\saddle\tremolo question

Stratman68

Axe-Master
So I read thru and followed links in the long thread about Strat tremolos
https://forum.fractalaudio.com/threads/recommend-a-replacement-tremolo-for-my-strat.164140/
Helped me but left some questions unanswered.
I am talking my 2006 USA Fender Deluxe Strat. Was special run for MF I think-the color..... Anyway the saddles are the block type, chrome plated I guess. But they have the off set screws, which I have hated for over a decade. Now in my later years I want to replace them with the center intonation screw saddles.
I know I have to change the whole tremolo assembly because the holes the intonation screws go thru are for offset screws. But that's OK.
Here is a picture, not great though. If I am measuring correctly, center of the 2 screws holding the bridge it's 2 3/16's.
Hope this all makes sense.
Why, you may ask? If you look close you will see the saddles are actually on an angle towards the top side of the guitar body. The neck is set correctly in the pocket. It's not the neck, it's the offset screws. Also, this is the pop in tremolo.
 

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My American Std Strat has those same offset screw saddles like that. Mine are slightly angled like that too. It's always bugged me aesthetically, but doesn't seem to cause any other issues. I've always been more irritated by the wobbly screw in tremolo arm in mine. It needs a bushing something awful.

2 7/32" is the spec'd stud spacing on Fender USA two post tremolos. It's the same spacing as the outer two screws on the 6 screw vintage tremolos.
 
My American Std Strat has those same offset screw saddles like that. Mine are slightly angled like that too. It's always bugged me aesthetically, but doesn't seem to cause any other issues. I've always been more irritated by the wobbly screw in tremolo arm in mine. It needs a bushing something awful.

2 7/32" is the spec'd stud spacing on Fender USA two post tremolos. It's the same spacing as the outer two screws on the 6 screw vintage tremolos.
Honestly, yes they bug me and have for years.....Thanks for the info..................
 
I found this on another forum:
Fender part# 0075091000
povwvrxglt68gsjob6to.jpg


This is the one with the bent sadles and with the centered screws.
 
I bought new Fender trem and had it machined to accommodate Graphtech Ghost saddles.
I wish I had known about the Gotoh 510.
Seems like a very fine piece of kit.
 
I'm a bit confused.
Yours has a stud spacing of 2-7/32" and a string spacing of 2-1/16" - #5 on the Callaham chart
The Gotoh 510 has a stud spacing of 56mm (2-7/32") and a string spacing of 10,8 x 5 = 54mm (2-1/16")
So you should be OK
 
I'm a bit confused.
Yours has a stud spacing of 2-7/32" and a string spacing of 2-1/16" - #5 on the Callaham chart
The Gotoh 510 has a stud spacing of 56mm (2-7/32") and a string spacing of 10,8 x 5 = 54mm (2-1/16")
So you should be OK
I know, but it also says "unavailable"?
 
NS510 is narrow spacing (10,5mm)
T = block with FST mechanism
TS= steel block
Suffix:
BS = Brass Saddle
FE = Steel Saddle
SF = Steel Saddle Sheet Metal
1 = 2 studs
2 = 6 screws

So I guess you would need the 510T-FE1 or 510TS-FE1
 
NS510 is narrow spacing (10,5mm)
T = block with FST mechanism
TS= steel block
Suffix:
BS = Brass Saddle
FE = Steel Saddle
SF = Steel Saddle Sheet Metal
1 = 2 studs
2 = 6 screws

So I guess you would need the 510T-FE1 or 510TS-FE1
Thanks I'll check it out! Appreciate it...
 
Your welcome.
It's actually Andy we have to thank because now he's got me curious too :D
I think I'll try one out.
Too bad I have the Ghost saddles with the offset.
Oh well....
I'll just get me some other ones.
Too bad they don't have them in a satin nickel or chrome finish
 
https://g-gotoh.com/product/510ts-fe1/?lang=en
This is the one on Suhr guitars and has a shallow drilled vintage style cold rolled steel block, because of the shallow ball end position the string tension is slightly higher than the T version . The T has a deep set ball end and is made of zinc . Don't be put off by this as it is not a sintered cast it is a high quality liquid cast. The T has the lowest string tension and a warmer tone. Choose the saddles according to the tone you want.
 
https://g-gotoh.com/product/510ts-fe1/?lang=en
This is the one on Suhr guitars and has a shallow drilled vintage style cold rolled steel block, because of the shallow ball end position the string tension is slightly higher than the T version . The T has a deep set ball end and is made of zinc . Don't be put off by this as it is not a sintered cast it is a high quality liquid cast. The T has the lowest string tension and a warmer tone. Choose the saddles according to the tone you want.

So when I check string spacing, I use a Origical Digital caliper and measure between inside of e string to E string and divide by 5. Is that not correct?
 
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