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Alternative to Mosky Dual switch?

Gasp100

Power User
I really like the Mosky Dual switch but I recently used one for a while and then one side started to fail (would no longer trigger expected functions). I made sure all of the FM3 settings were correct, still no dice and could not trust it live.
I'm wondering if there is a better switch to use around the same price (less than $50) more durable with two buttons and maybe slightly larger to sit on pedlboard better?
 

mr_fender

Axe-Master
I really want to try to build the dual switch myself. Anyone has the schematic for this DIY project?

Here ya go:

schemeit-project.png

Nothing to it. Just two momentary pushbutton switches, a 1/4" TRS jack, some hookup wire, and an enclosure of your choice. Switch 1 shorts between the tip and sleeve of the TRS jack and switch 2 shorts between the ring and sleeve. Both normally open or normally closed switches will both work fine. Just use two of the same switch for simplicity.

Carling makes good quality footswitches. Switchcraft and Neutrik make good TRS jacks.
 

Rex

Legend!
I really like the Mosky Dual switch but I recently used one for a while and then one side started to fail (would no longer trigger expected functions). I made sure all of the FM3 settings were correct, still no dice and could not trust it live.
I'm wondering if there is a better switch to use around the same price (less than $50) more durable with two buttons and maybe slightly larger to sit on pedlboard better?
Make sure it's the switch that failed, and not the cable. ;)
 

kptkarl

Inspired
https://lovemyswitches.com The 1590B or 1590G enclosures are a little larger footprint(G is a little tight in height to fit the components but works, I believe the Mosky uses a 125B size enclosure).
The Pro Grade Momentary SPST switches are great.
( I am not affiliated, simply like what they offer.)
 

Gasp100

Power User
Make sure it's the switch that failed, and not the cable. ;)
Yea, it's weird. I had one and sold the FM3 and then used it with the HX Stomp (and sold that LOL) and that one worked perfectly, may have even been using the same cable. Then I got another FM3, set it up, was working for like a day and then failed on one side. I did some troubleshooting for a bit but had a gig that night and kind of freaked out and just went with expression + FM3 (which also kicks ass).
I went on ANOTHER tangent and built a pretty kick ass board, played two gigs this weekend but also singing alot more and the tap dancing was just too much... sounded really good, but I had a number of mis-hits especially when also singing that I simply can't have (and can't really work around with big, wide feet as well).
Soooooooooooooooooooooooooo back to the FM3 AGAIN. It's simply unparalleled at the price point, I don't know why I let myself even try other gear? This board really sounds killer direct, but it is way too complex and much, much less versatile than just the FM3 by itself.
Oh well, I'm sure Cliff will be happy to see me using the shopping cart again so soon LOL...

File_000.jpeg
 

Pete1959

Inspired
I've had this Disaster Area DMC-3XL MIDI switcher (Gen 3) for several years now originally using it for my Atomic AF3. Never hooked it up to my old AX8 as it had enough switches so it was put aside gathering dust since 2017.

When I got my FM3, I decided to try the switcher for scenes. The unit also has an expression jack and on the side, an expression roller which I have yet to configure.

One amazing feature with this little box comes through with a firmware update 1.62 which makes this box a keeper. They have implemented a hold function which really adds to the functionality. After some figuring out how to program the unit to send MIDI changes, the unit is set up as follows:

Left tap: Previous scene
Right tap: Next scene

Left hold (2 seconds): Previous preset
Right hold ( 2 seconds): Next preset


Works like a charm!

The beauty of the firmware is you can program to toggle values, momentary, or one single command (which I have). The expression jack in the back of the unit is not assigned yet nor is the expression roller on the side. Kudos to Disaster Area for "pulling a Fractal" and updating the firmware.
It was originally intended for my 3 button Atomic Amplifire at the time and a good match in red but is also available in black. There's a great YouTube video from Disaster Area which explains how use the new features of firmware 1.60 and configure. This version 1.62 is just an incremental update but pretty much the same.

I find this way more usable than my Boss FS7 and can use 2 expression pedals on the FM3 & not sacrifice a jack. There's also an expression jack on the DMC-3XL and even an extra "multi-jack" which is programmable for MIDI or expression. I may get to trying those one day.

Great little box as my FM3 can now have any layout or performance page I want and can still quickly switch between scenes and presets. Also set the default scene to #2 on my presets to have one tap access to a different scene on the left and another on the right.

DMC3-Gen3.png
 

unix-guy

Legend!
I really like the Mosky Dual switch but I recently used one for a while and then one side started to fail (would no longer trigger expected functions). I made sure all of the FM3 settings were correct, still no dice and could not trust it live.
I'm wondering if there is a better switch to use around the same price (less than $50) more durable with two buttons and maybe slightly larger to sit on pedlboard better?
Fairly low chance the switch failed.

Check the cable and wiring inside the switch.

As mentioned, it takes minimal effort to make your own... But I am not sure what in a self-made version of a switch you already have will be any more reliable? Maybe better soldering? But you could always redo that with the Moskey ;)
 

fcs101

Experienced
Get two Boss FS-5Us. Non-latching switches (can use both tap and hold functions) and no power required. You can use a Y-cable (TRS) and run them into one pedal input. They work perfectly for stand-in switches. It'd be a little larger like you want with nice big buttons. They are sold individually, but interlock into one unit.
 

bdrepko

Fractal Fanatic
I really like the Mosky Dual switch but I recently used one for a while and then one side started to fail (would no longer trigger expected functions). I made sure all of the FM3 settings were correct, still no dice and could not trust it live.
I'm wondering if there is a better switch to use around the same price (less than $50) more durable with two buttons and maybe slightly larger to sit on pedlboard better?
You can use a Roland FS7. I use 2 of them. You only need a battery or power supply for the status lights. It will still work without power. Gives me 4 switches in a 5" by 5" space.
 
Is it possible that the switch is dirty? I clean mine periodically with electronics cleaner (not the forced air type). Also, why build a new box when (if its the switch) you could easily replace just the switch? It would probably be the easier solution rather than spending more money on a different box. IMHO.
 

Gasp100

Power User
Is it possible that the switch is dirty? I clean mine periodically with electronics cleaner (not the forced air type). Also, why build a new box when (if its the switch) you could easily replace just the switch? It would probably be the easier solution rather than spending more money on a different box. IMHO.

I always buy my ancillary gear through Amazon and it was $25 so I returned it no questions asked. I'm tempted to purchase another one and try again because I know the steps to program it and it has worked in the past. But, I appreciate other options and I think some of them - The Boss in particular - would be better build quality. The other thing is the switch is thin/small so a no go if I forgo the actual board underneath. I have to look closer at the Boss offerings, but it seems they MIGHT actually work well "free floating"... meaning not tethered to a board?
Can anyone confirm?
That would mean I don't need a board at all.
 

Gasp100

Power User
You can use a Roland FS7. I use 2 of them. You only need a battery or power supply for the status lights. It will still work without power. Gives me 4 switches in a 5" by 5" space.

I think I'm going to try the FS-7. I hope the buttons are easy to hit without mis-hits? Looks like it can be momentary OR latching and set polarity so I'm assuming that is what I need.
Can I get dual functions out of each switch? (ie. tap/hold) on EACH switch?
I actually have a CS6 power supply under the board and could utilize the LEDs which would be nice.
Then drop the LEDs if I don't want to bring a full board.
Got one!
 
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bdrepko

Fractal Fanatic
I think I'm going to try the FS-7. I hope the buttons are easy to hit without mis-hits? Looks like it can be momentary OR latching and set polarity so I'm assuming that is what I need.
Can I get dual functions out of each switch? (ie. tap/hold) on EACH switch?
I actually have a CS6 power supply under the board and could utilize the LEDs which would be nice.
Then drop the LEDs if I don't want to bring a full board.
Each button works exactly like the FM3 switches (tap/hold functions). I have used them for years with no problems at all.
 
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