Out of curiosity, has this guitar been fully set up? If not, I'd recommend doing a full set up. What you'll find is that one thing affects another so there's a process to follow.Is setting the action at the 12th fret to 1.25 on low E and 1.0 on high E too low or too much to ask?
What do you think? I'm new to all this.
Ok, units-guy....Units are helpful
1.25mm? 1.25in?
The former is probably good... I like 1mm on both.
I haven't measured with rulers and feeler gauges in years.Imo, it depends on how you bend strings. Once I changed my technique a bit, to the point of not allowing the adjacent string to be pushed with my finger, but instead, having it pushed down onto the fret, I set my action as low as possible, after I set my neck relief almost flat. Iow, with a capo @ 1, then holding the strings against the 24th fret, there's just the tiniest bit of relief @ 12. Just enough that it's there. After that, I just set the action as far down as I can, w/o any string buzz being heard amplified (you can hear it acoustically, but that doesn't matter.)
I set it that way to make fast licks easier to play. I'd say my action is about 1/16", maybe slightly less (by eye.)
Huh! That's an interesting way of describing that. This is the kind of shit that makes me wish I could get together with some of you guys here. I'm sure I'd learn more than I have to offer.when it starts to sound slightly flammed
Action does not go hand in hand with relief. The amount a relief that works when CAD modelled is almost nothing and practical identical across a range of actions and string gauges . Too much is seriously detrimental to the next fret clearance at the upper end of the neck at the same measured action. The ONLY time a lot of relief works is if you have a sledge hammer right hand and don't play above the 7th fret but this is effectively the same as high action and the right (almost nothing ) relief. This would at least work if you did play the upper register .I'll just throw this out there. Everyone so far has mentioned setting the neck perfectly straight That'll put you in one of two situations: 1. if you set the action low, you'll get buzz, or 2. you'll have very high action to get rid of the buzz.
Some neck relief is actually desired, if you want the best of both options.
Here's a quote from Sweetwater's setup advice: "Action and relief go hand in hand and your guitar will play its best when they are both set properly."
They won't tell you where to set the relief (bow), because that's up to you, just be aware of the relationship.
Action absolutely goes hand-in-hand with relief. Why do you think it's an "adjustable" truss rod.Action does not go hand in hand with relief.
I said almost flat. I specifically do this because, I want just a touch of relief, and, if you go for "perfectly straight," you won't know if you've gone too far by just using the strings as your gauge. You'd need a straightedge, and I don't want to want to deal with that.Everyone so far has mentioned setting the neck perfectly straight
It's an adjustable trus rod so you have a means for countering what temperature & humidity do to a neck. You cannot make a long, slender piece of wood never move, even if you built it from laminates.Action absolutely goes hand-in-hand with relief. Why do you think it's a "adjustable" truss rod.
If we wanted a straight neck, just put in a non-adjustable rod. That thing would never move.
Mine is 30 years a repair tech and experience not to mention CAD modelling if you care to produce actual evidence . And the best of the best out there agree with me. I would post to the John Suhr set up guide I have linked in the past . Your other point has been addressed by TSJMajesty above.Action absolutely goes hand-in-hand with relief. Why do you think it's a "adjustable" truss rod.
If we wanted a straight neck, just put in a non-adjustable rod. That thing would never move.
Anyway, there are plenty of references to contradict you. Sweetwater is one which is readily accessible and respected. Lots of others out there.
These vague comments are the mark of someone who is not in a defensible position.And the best of the best out there agree with me.
Sorry, I misunderstood you.I said almost flat.
It's an adjustable trus rod so you have a means for countering what temperature & humidity do to a neck. You cannot make a long, slender piece of wood never move, even if you built it from laminates.
BS. The reason they didn't take off is because of the difficulty of actually making a neck that can do this and the cost.These vague comments are the mark of someone who is not in a defensible position.
True, some have tried set necks and guess what? They didn't take off. The fact that you like them is really only indicative that you like a flat neck.