A bit of an issue...

If you gently wedge something under the three tensioned contacts at the top of the jack (toothpicks work well) and tilt the unit up, the piece should fall out when shaken a bit.

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The Pedal 1 jack is closest to the board, so there's not a lot of room to work. A thin, stiff wire tool with a little hook on the end might work to reach in there a pry each of those contacts up enough to release the tension on the plug tip.

If you push a plug into one of the other jacks with it open, you can see how those contacts move. That spring tension is what holds the plug in there. You just need to lift them enough to release that tension from the plug tip. Don't go crazy and bend them or the jack will then be too loose.
 
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Regardless, worst case scenario, since I only use one Expression pedal, I could just plug into the second slot and ignore the first for the time being I assume? Would I run into any issues otherwise with the unit possibly still detecting Pedal 1 as in use because it's stuck in there?
 
It should be fine to just use Pedal 2. I would think worst case would be pedal 1 would just register stuck at toe down on the pedal. If you don't assign Pedal 1 to any functions or modifiers it shouldn't cause any issues.
 
Is the end rattling around loose in there, or is the jack holding it snug? Might be able to shake it out if you wedge a toothpick under each jack contact and jiggle the unit a bit, as Mr. Fender suggested.
 
This looks like an interesting option.
I have used them to get tips of keys out of locks and other objects out of tight places for decades. The four thin wires on the left are just that, thin wires with a little barb at the end. I think if you slid one in on one side of the broken tip with the barb obviously pointing inward (so as not to scuff up the jack walls) and another on the other side it would get the job done.
 
If I couldn't grab with small pliers or a hook, I'd be trying to stick something to it (yes, a bit more risky).

Either a soldering iron with a thin tip.
I'd put a dab of solder on the tip, put it in (against the piece of metal from your cable), then turn the iron off.
If it's metal, the solder should stick to it when it cools.

Or the flat side of a nail with a drop of 2 part epoxy on it.

I've been know to do dumb things though.
 
I had a customer this week who had a similar accidents with his Axe-Fx III headphone out. We resolve with a long screw. Insert the screw, try to tight it then pull it off.
View attachment 106522

Man, a reality check that for the most part gone are the days of “Made in the USA” of the 40’s, 50’s, 60’s & part of the 70’s!

Global economy! Consumerism!

“All the World’s a Stage” …for the elites.

I have a few items made in the USA back then! Including headphones.

Built like tanks! Including the plugs!
 
If I couldn't grab with small pliers or a hook, I'd be trying to stick something to it (yes, a bit more risky).

Either a soldering iron with a thin tip.
I'd put a dab of solder on the tip, put it in (against the piece of metal from your cable), then turn the iron off.
If it's metal, the solder should stick to it when it cools.

Or the flat side of a nail with a drop of 2 part epoxy on it.

I've been know to do dumb things though.

Or a thin sliver spread of super glue on the flat nail head or similar. 😬

Make sure very thin and not dripping. 😬

Enough time to just contact the piece and adhere.

Risky maneuver if not anal careful.
 
Man, a reality check that for the most part gone are the days of “Made in the USA” of the 40’s, 50’s, 60’s & part of the 70’s!

Global economy! Consumerism!

“All the World’s a Stage” …for the elites.

I have a few items made in the USA back then! Including headphones.

Built like tanks! Including the plugs!
You’re right. Never had any problem like that with my own items but IMHO it’s not a problem of “Made in…” but many brands decided to lower quality of their item…
 
Make sure very thin and not dripping. 😬

Yes, this is why I'd use 2 part epoxy (just the stuff from home depot).
It's like a gel and very controllable (does not drip)

And yeah, it's like playing a game of operation.

I'd likely take a pen cap as well, that is about 1/4" and use it as a sleeve inside the jack, protecting a little from the sides.

Then I'd end up with a pen cap, a nail and the TRS tip all nicely epoxied inside that jack forever...LOL
 
Support got back to me, looks like theres no special trick, and i'll have to make this happen myself somehow, or send it in. (eye roll)
Could you maybe put a tiny dab of loctite on the part of the cable that is out and slide it back in to make contact with the stuck piece? 20-30 seconds should bond it back together and then you should be able to pull it out. Obviously, don't over do it with the loctite.
 
saw a similar discussion somewhere, and the person used a plastic straw of correct diameter (large enough to match the inside diameter of the jack). The idea was to push the straw into the jack and surround the broken off tip, then slowly pulling the straw out with the unit/jack tilted downward so that gravity helps it to come out with the straw.
 
saw a similar discussion somewhere, and the person used a plastic straw of correct diameter (large enough to match the inside diameter of the jack). The idea was to push the straw into the jack and surround the broken off tip, then slowly pulling the straw out with the unit/jack tilted downward so that gravity helps it to come out with the straw.
Clever....
 
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