5150 build.

If anyone has any hi res close images please post them here as they are really few and far between. Working on particular marks and details would be a whole lot easier if I had a set of full size hi res photos . From this shot (previous page) as good as it is you can't really tell that the black tape too highlight the jack is gaff not electrical.
 
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I am modifying a Schaller Floyd from 1984 to close to FRT5 specks. can't decide whether to remove the spring plate or not probably will but it is on in these pics.
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Prototype arm and steel block made and fitted
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that really looks the part.
 
I have now cut a bevel on the underside leading edge and shortened the screws to allow it to sit and operate flat on the body.
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You can see the "made in West Germany" in the forged baseplate, this accompanied by no patent no or markings on the original block put it at 1984. These old floyds have far harder saddles than modern ones but they also have a less functional angle on the knife edge bevel so it's a tough choice . A good option in new floyds if you have to have a "real" one is the 1984 reissue which is actually different in a few things over the actual 1984 I have here.
 
Read all the thread (sorry only now) and... wow, what a work based on an incredible knowledge! Man this is an amazing piece of art (in every sense)!!!
 
I actually have a new "1984 OFR" on my guitar, and in order to get the decked operation, I also had to bevel the edge of the base plate (as per your recommendation) in order to get any reasonable range of motion. Seems like no matter which version, the angle is required. The angle becomes even more important when you take the spring plate and block shim out. I've been debating whether or not to delete the spring plate as well but when I do, I have to angle the floyd back a little bit for clearance.
 
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MkIII.
on it's way!
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This is a pic Chris Locke sent me of the body and neck they have built for me.
As you can see it has a trace of the forearm grain on the original cut 0.5mm deep. This will be the basis of the grain I am going to carve to replicate the original .This has also been built from selected pieces for the weight to mach the original .
I will be fretting it in Jescar 57110 stainless because it is my personal favourite.
I have also tracked down 1K acrylic lacquer in RAL 2002 Vermilion (supposed to be the same as WA7753) and white RAL9010 bright white as I am pretty sure it was.
 
This is the latest revision that is modelled on a lot of 3D scanning of original pacer bodies and photos of the original from every available angle.
It also has the neck construction of a modified strat with the locknut table now correct and the slightly longer heel as the original.
Chris and Donny at LCG have worked hard to produce a kit that is now by far the most accurate available. All of my gripes and details have been corrected in the new kit. BTW it normally comes fretted but they built this one to my details and that included me wanting to do the frets .
 
Oh there are two differences.
1. The added wood on the headstock is maple and not birch from a headboard.
2. The truss rod is a two way modern one instead of a vintage single rod.
The differences are not visible in the finished guitar in either case.
PLUS I'm not going to use 6150 fret size on a guitar for me.
 
I use a bit of danish oil wiped in just to seal it a bit and then a light sand with 1500 if the grain is up .You may need to repeat it again in a month but then it pretty much stays the same.
 
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