Totally.Fricking bad ass…….
I continued to use ash on the relic simply because it is not proved either way. My NOS replica is Basswood and I believe this to be on balance of probability correct but I have both. By sound (when I played is acoustically )I would also say the original was basswood and by the visual evidence in this thread BUT the open pours in the forearm contour are certainly the visual character of swamp ash. Removing the spring plate on the Floyd certainly improves the bridge to body contact and has no detrimental effect on the performance of the fine tuners BUT if you had a D tuna fitted when you depressed the bar completely the d tuna would move (without the spring holding it) and not remain in tune on return. This is not an issues if it's not fitted.
Removing the spring plate on a Floyd is only useful to reduce it's hight and if you have the back resting on the body or you won't tell any difference.So you do think it's better to remove the spring plate on any guitar with a floating Floyd? I'm saving all my money for a move, so I can't go for the Gotoh 1996 as I'd like, but I'm always open to better tone tips with what I have, the Schecter Sun Valley Super Shredder Black Limba with it's stock Floyd, and I just float it, because I never down tune or have any other reason ever to block it or set it for down only.
Thanks but I don't know if without another pandemic I'll ever have time.Dude, this has been a truly epic ride. I bow my head in respect to the love with which you did this, in all of its iterations. I actually feel sad it's ending!
You really oughtta just build random ideas on the side whenever you have time just to show the world how it's done from your perspective. I'm sure you have all sorts of cool ideas for various types of guitars.
Removing the spring plate on a Floyd is only useful to reduce it's hight and if you have the back resting on the body or you won't tell any difference.
It won't be a noticeable difference unless its resting on the springs.I'm not resting on the body, I have a recessed route, and I have a full floating setup. I love using the full range of motion both for dives and for pull ups.
It won't be a noticeable difference unless its resting on the springs.
With the spring plate removed, can the saddles lose tension if when doing extreme dive bombs or is there always enough string tension to keep the saddles pulled up in their proper place? In other words, do the string block screws always remain in contact with the fine tuner screws? Hope that makes sense. I always deck my bridges but have never tried removing the tension plate. Do you remove the shim plate as well?It won't be a noticeable difference unless its resting on the springs.
Yes the tension plate is not needed without the spring plate.With the spring plate removed, can the saddles lose tension if when doing extreme dive bombs or is there always enough string tension to keep the saddles pulled up in their proper place? In other words, do the string block screws always remain in contact with the fine tuner screws? Hope that makes sense. I always deck my bridges but have never tried removing the tension plate. Do you remove the shim plate as well?
Yea I had an issue with the d-tuna popping out with trem use on my Wolf, I ended up putting a new spring plate on.Yes the tension plate is not needed without the spring plate.
The bolts do lose contact with the fine tuner when you get a totally slack string but I have never had an issue of them not returning sufficiently to go even slightly out of tune. If your saddles have o lot of slop in the hing this may be a potential issue but I haven't seen it. This is however the problem with the D tuna and no spring plate. I was surprised to see Ed has the spring cut off under the D tuna.
If somebody commissioned one I would do it.Andy…any plans to start building these for sale?