3rd party IR question

jwa174900

Inspired
Whenever I load up any 3rd party IR, York Audio. ML, GGD, OH it seems to me they are always considerably brighter and have a lot less low end compared to a lot of the factory IR's. Is this normal? Am I doing something wrong when loading them? I load them through the manage tab and follow the directions and they load fine. I pick either the fractal option of the 48k version depending on vendor. TIA
 
Whenever I load up any 3rd party IR, York Audio. ML, GGD, OH it seems to me they are always considerably brighter and have a lot less low end compared to a lot of the factory IR's. Is this normal? Am I doing something wrong when loading them? I load them through the manage tab and follow the directions and they load fine. I pick either the fractal option of the 48k version depending on vendor. TIA
You’re loading everything correctly and you’re hearing them correctly. If you’re using York Audio IRs, you’re getting an authentic frequency response of the mics and mic placements you’re using. It’s important to remember that you need to tweak your amp settings around the IR you’ve chosen. If it sounds bright, reduce your treble/presence settings to get the top end response you want. If it sounds boomy in the low end, reduce your bass. If you want more low end, simply raise your bass control. If you want more low end than what is naturally present in the amp and IR, you can use an EQ block after the Cab to get more low end out of it.

There are different reasons why some IRs (factory or 3rd party) may have a TON of low end. Typically that’s low end that will muddy up your tone and get you lost in the mix. A cleaner low end will still give you body in your tone and sit much better in the mix.

All that to say, you’re not doing anything wrong… you might just need to twist some knobs to get the most out of your IRs.

I hope this helps!
 
You’re loading everything correctly and you’re hearing them correctly. If you’re using York Audio IRs, you’re getting an authentic frequency response of the mics and mic placements you’re using. It’s important to remember that you need to tweak your amp settings around the IR you’ve chosen. If it sounds bright, reduce your treble/presence settings to get the top end response you want. If it sounds boomy in the low end, reduce your bass. If you want more low end, simply raise your bass control. If you want more low end than what is naturally present in the amp and IR, you can use an EQ block after the Cab to get more low end out of it.

There are different reasons why some IRs (factory or 3rd party) may have a TON of low end. Typically that’s low end that will muddy up your tone and get you lost in the mix. A cleaner low end will still give you body in your tone and sit much better in the mix.

All that to say, you’re not doing anything wrong… you might just need to twist some knobs to get the most out of your IRs.

I hope this helps!
Thanks for the response Justin, I appreciate it. I've got most of your IR packs and they are definitely some of my favorite. Yours seem to be brighter than most and I like a bright tone. I've just been playing around with a lot of the presets and trying 3rd party IR's on factory presets. I was worried I might be doing something wrong on my end. I've had the axfx3 for over a year, I've taken Cooper Carters class, watched every Leon Todd video, most G66 videos and I've come to the conclusion that I just started to scratch the surface of the machine.
 
Thanks for the response Justin, I appreciate it. I've got most of your IR packs and they are definitely some of my favorite. Yours seem to be brighter than most and I like a bright tone. I've just been playing around with a lot of the presets and trying 3rd party IR's on factory presets. I was worried I might be doing something wrong on my end. I've had the axfx3 for over a year, I've taken Cooper Carters class, watched every Leon Todd video, most G66 videos and I've come to the conclusion that I just started to scratch the surface of the machine.
Maybe not brighter, but “clearer” than most. You might like the CN captures in the packs if you want them a little darker in the top end.

My advice to any new Fractal user is pretty simple. Treat it like a real rig and it will sound like a real rig. Start with your cab, since that’s the biggest factor in your overall tone. I’d start with Mix 01 as a general rule of thumb since the 57-121 mic combo is such a staple.

Then choose your amp (no effects yet) and tweak it like you would with a real amp using just the Authentic tab in the Amp block. Also, try to use the closest Impedance Curve to the cab you’re using in the Speaker tab in the Amp block.

Once you’ve got your core amp tone, add one effect at a time in the same order you’d have them on your pedalboard. If you run all of your pedals into the front of your real amp, then run all of your effects blocks in front of the Amp block.

Keeping it simple will give you the most authentic results. The Axe-Fx let’s you do anything you could possibly want, but just because you CAN doesn’t always mean that you SHOULD.

I’ve been using Fractal products for 8 years. The modeling is so good now that I rarely feel the need to adjust any advanced parameters and I’m easily able to match my real amps using just the Authentic controls in the amp block.

I hope this is helpful. Just remember to have fun. :)
 
Maybe not brighter, but “clearer” than most. You might like the CN captures in the packs if you want them a little darker in the top end.

My advice to any new Fractal user is pretty simple. Treat it like a real rig and it will sound like a real rig. Start with your cab, since that’s the biggest factor in your overall tone. I’d start with Mix 01 as a general rule of thumb since the 57-121 mic combo is such a staple.

Then choose your amp (no effects yet) and tweak it like you would with a real amp using just the Authentic tab in the Amp block. Also, try to use the closest Impedance Curve to the cab you’re using in the Speaker tab in the Amp block.

Once you’ve got your core amp tone, add one effect at a time in the same order you’d have them on your pedalboard. If you run all of your pedals into the front of your real amp, then run all of your effects blocks in front of the Amp block.

Keeping it simple will give you the most authentic results. The Axe-Fx let’s you do anything you could possibly want, but just because you CAN doesn’t always mean that you SHOULD.

I’ve been using Fractal products for 8 years. The modeling is so good now that I rarely feel the need to adjust any advanced parameters and I’m easily able to match my real amps using just the Authentic controls in the amp block.

I hope this is helpful. Just remember to have fun. :)
That's very good advice. Thank you. I have learned the KISS method works best for me as well. I've spent countless hours tweaking this and that parameter to see what it does then reamping a DI to see how it fits in the mix and coming up with terrible results. Now I usually pick a preset that is close to what I want to hear or amp type that I'm thinking of and making minor tweaks in the amp after I find and IR I like.
 
Whenever I load up any 3rd party IR, York Audio. ML, GGD, OH it seems to me they are always considerably brighter and have a lot less low end compared to a lot of the factory IR's. Is this normal? Am I doing something wrong when loading them? I load them through the manage tab and follow the directions and they load fine. I pick either the fractal option of the 48k version depending on vendor. TIA
Question! I am beginning to want to try out IRs and am wondering: what are you doing for the Min Phase and Auto Trim features? I have no idea if I should check those or not.
 
Question! I am beginning to want to try out IRs and am wondering: what are you doing for the Min Phase and Auto Trim features? I have no idea if I should check those or not.
I don't worry about those when I am uploading 3rd party IR's too much. Depending on the vendor there is usually a folder for Minimum phase or fractal in the downloads when you purchase them. It's different when you are using "full res" IR's for the AITR feel. I don't own the Mark 2 where there is more room but I would assume you would need to load the full res IR's into the legacy section and then load those into cab blocks 3 and 4 as those cab blocks allow for the much longer time needed for the full res IR's
 
I don't worry about those when I am uploading 3rd party IR's too much. Depending on the vendor there is usually a folder for Minimum phase or fractal in the downloads when you purchase them. It's different when you are using "full res" IR's for the AITR feel. I don't own the Mark 2 where there is more room but I would assume you would need to load the full res IR's into the legacy section and then load those into cab blocks 3 and 4 as those cab blocks allow for the much longer time needed for the full res IR's
Another rookie question:

I just tried converting a folder full of 48000 - 200ms .wav files. I put it as the Source folder, and make a destination folder for them to go into. It is saying there are now .wav files in that folder, which is not true. Any idea what I am doing wrong?
 

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Another rookie question:

I just tried converting a folder full of 48000 - 200ms .wav files. I put it as the Source folder, and make a destination folder for them to go into. It is saying there are now .wav files in that folder, which is not true. Any idea what I am doing wrong?
They should be changing them from a wav. file into a syx. file for the axfx. You don't need to do that through the cab lab anymore. You can open up the cabinet block, click on the picker button, click on manage and then click ok because it will ask you a question. Then click on the browser icon in the top left, click on the open directory tab. Next a new window should appear with a choose folder option click on that, search for where ever your folder is that contains your wav. format IR's, pick the ones you want and click ok then just drag and drop the new IR's on the left column to an open spot in your library block and hit save and viola.....all your IR's are imported into your unit.
 
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