3D Printed External FC Switch Box / Expression Box

An idea I had, which I have not tested yet, is getting a 4 pole switch so I could have a TRS input from an expression knob, and then also a pedal, and those going into one port, and using the switch to toggle between the knob or pedal on the fly.

I like to have a few knobs for things like playing with delays, tape speed, feedback etc, but I don’t like to use all my pedal ports, as I use expression pedals too.

Figure a switch that can serve as an a/b would work great to activate a “knob box” for times when I want it, and let me keep the pedals otherwise connected.
 
Too cool! Thanks much for posting this. I'm interested in a single-row version. (My current pedal board is short on space.) I've passed the idea along to the 3D printer guys on the woodworking forum I help run to see if anyone there is interested in doing a some commission work for me.
 
Thanks guys!

@TG3K I just made a quick alteration to the 3D model in Tinkercad to make a "single column" version of it. It's attached here in .stl and .obj format. (Note: haven't printed it out to verify that everything is optimal, but based on the dual column one, this single column should work fine, and be able to print without supports)

FC-External-Switch-Box-3D-Models-Screenshot.jpg

Also attached are the .stl and .obj files for the full size box (double column) that I printed.

If anyone has success in printing these out, would love to hear of your adventures in 3D printing and see results. Post em here! As I mentioned before, I recommend printing with PLA, since ABS just shrinks too much for this large of a print. Also, if anyone has a SLA printer or other technology, would be interested to hear about results.

- Jason
 

Attachments

  • FC Block Single Bottom Plate.zip
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  • FC Block Single.zip
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  • FC Block Single Bottom Plate STL.zip
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  • FC Block Single STL.zip
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  • FC Block New 3 STL.zip
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  • FC Block New 3.zip
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  • FC Block New 3 Bottom Plate.zip
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Single row with 2 switches works great. Amazing how much it added to the FC6 by having a dedicated button for each layout, I do scenes and effects for the press, then presets and looper for the holds, can get around super fast and have 6 dynamic switches for scenes and effects and such

Adds like 1.5” to the width but like 100% to the usability! Lol

508EDFCD-FD3C-4F2A-A03D-6E1D7FEB2DBE.jpeg
 
creativespiral said:
Thanks guys!

@TG3K I just made a quick alteration to the 3D model in Tinkercad to make a "single row" version of it It's attached here in .stl and .obj format. (Note: haven't printed it out to verify that everything is optimal, but based on the dual row one, this single row should work fine, and be able to print without supports)

Also attached are the .stl and .obj files for the full size box (double wide) that I printed.

If anyone has success in printing these out, would love to hear of your adventures in 3D printing and see results. Post em here! As I mentioned before, I recommend printing with PLA, since ABS just shrinks too much for this large of a print. Also, if anyone has a SLA printer or other technology, would be interested to hear about results.

- Jason
Click to expand...

Many thanks, Jason! I've already gotten a response from one of my buddies on the other forum. He asked for pics and the .stl file, and you've delivered in spades. I'll keep you posted on what he comes up with.
 
No prob! On page 1 of this thread are the detailed print settings I used on my Flashforge Dreamer.... if printing with an infill (not fully solid), just make sure that there are enough bottom solid layers and top solid layers, so you have some meat to drill a bottom plate into, and solid top. I went with 30 layers solid bottom and top at the 0.18mm height, which comes out to about 5.5mm solid. (the top layer is approx 1/4in nominal) Good luck!
 
creativespiral said:
No prob! On page 1 of this thread are the detailed print settings I used on my Flashforge Dreamer.... if printing with an infill (not fully solid), just make sure that there are enough bottom solid layers and top solid layers, so you have some meat to drill a bottom plate into, and solid top. I went with 30 layers solid bottom and top at the 0.18mm height, which comes out to about 5.5mm solid. (the top layer is approx 1/4in nominal) Good luck!
Click to expand...

I appreciate that. I'll make sure to pass that info along as well. You rock! (I'll try to get him to create an account here, so he can see this whole thread. He's a bass player and a gearhead...I just haven't Fractalized him quite yet, lol.)
 
Quick update...my buddy got the files I sent and is getting ready to order a spool of black PLA. He has purple PLA in stock, but I figured that would look a little too garish, lol. Plus, I already have a purple Mission pedal on the board. I need to check to see how much space I have on my pedalboard so we can finalize the width, but aside from that, the single-row FC extension project is a go! In the meantime, I need to decide if I want an FC-9, or an FC-8 with an expression pot. (I already have 3 expression pedals, so I'm leaning toward three switches.)
 
TG3K said:
Quick update...my buddy got the files I sent and is getting ready to order a spool of black PLA. He has purple PLA in stock, but I figured that would look a little too garish, lol. Plus, I already have a purple Mission pedal on the board. I need to check to see how much space I have on my pedalboard so we can finalize the width, but aside from that, the single-row FC extension project is a go! In the meantime, I need to decide if I want an FC-9, or an FC-8 with an expression pot. (I already have 3 expression pedals, so I'm leaning toward three switches.)
Click to expand...

I tried 3 switches at first, but the problem is that the 2nd and 3rd row will be at essentially the same height and only about 3” apart. Meaning it’s pretty easy to hit the wrong switch if you’ve got big feet like I do.

I switched to a knob, because it was low profile enough to not get stepped on when hitting the second switch.

A 3rd switch makes more sense, but if it’s not easy to access then what good is it, right ?

Might be possible to add some height, or a button topper to it though.....???
 
Cool - I wouldn't shrink the horizontal width by much, if you're considering that. That's the one area that may be a bit tight, in terms of fitting TRS or TS jacks through the back wall. It should be fine as-is, and if you want it a bit wider, that would work fine.

These are the components I used, btw:

TRS Jacks (two switches per 1 jack, or one potentiometer per one jack)
Amazon product ASIN B000TG2XXC
SPST Momentary Switches (they are similar size to FC, but slightly smaller diameter on top... very solid switches though)
Amazon product ASIN B0751BHY99
Potentiometers:
Amazon product ASIN B074KF4LMN
Anti-Slip Rubberized Tape for Bottom (this stuff is great... gonna use it on a bunch of my pedals)
Amazon product ASIN B00I511BDQ
 
Yeah, might require some pro foot agility to make sure you don't hit the wrong switch (with a 3rd up top).. The button topper idea @lqdsnddist mentions is a good one! I actually did that with my MFC... made each row get progressively higher button toppers - even though the MFC has multiple levels, I just wanted more height on rear ones, as I occasionally would tap a lower row switch when devoting too much focus on playing.
 
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creativespiral said:
Cool - I wouldn't shrink the horizontal width by much, if you're considering that. That's the one area that may be a bit tight, in terms of fitting TRS or TS jacks through the back wall. It should be fine as-is, and if you want it a bit wider, that would work fine.

These are the components I used, btw:

TRS Jacks (two switches per 1 jack, or one potentiometer per one jack)
Amazon product ASIN B000TG2XXC
SPST Momentary Switches (they are similar size to FC, but slightly smaller diameter on top... very solid switches though)
Amazon product ASIN B0751BHY99
Potentiometers:
Amazon product ASIN B074KF4LMN
Anti-Slip Rubberized Tape for Bottom (this stuff is great... gonna use it on a bunch of my pedals)
Amazon product ASIN B00I511BDQ
Click to expand...

Could just be my browser, but for each of the components you listed, I'm just seeing the Amazon logo. No links or pictures.
 
Hmm... maybe some ad blocker in your browser or something? They show up as shopping links with product images and prices for me.

These are the names of them if you just want to search for them:

GLS Audio 1/4" Jacks Female TRS Stereo Panel Mount Jack - 20 PACK

Etopars Electric Guitar Effects Pedal Box Momentary SPST Button Stomp Foot Switch

2pcs RV24YN20S B103 10K ohm Carbon Film Potentiometer + 2pcs A03 knob

Safe Way Tracktion 2" x 12' Foot Roll of Black Resilient Rubberized Anti Slip Non Skid Safety Tape 3510-2-12
 
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creativespiral said:
Hmm... maybe some ad blocker in your browser or something? They show up as shopping links with product images and prices for me.

These are the names of them if you just want to search for them:

GLS Audio 1/4" Jacks Female TRS Stereo Panel Mount Jack - 20 PACK

Etopars Electric Guitar Effects Pedal Box Momentary SPST Button Stomp Foot Switch

2pcs RV24YN20S B103 10K ohm Carbon Film Potentiometer + 2pcs A03 knob

Safe Way Tracktion 2" x 12' Foot Roll of Black Resilient Rubberized Anti Slip Non Skid Safety Tape 3510-2-12
Click to expand...

Thanks for posting the names! Yes, probably cross-site cookies or trackers in the links triggering blocks.
 
creativespiral said:
Cool - I wouldn't shrink the horizontal width by much, if you're considering that. That's the one area that may be a bit tight, in terms of fitting TRS or TS jacks through the back wall. It should be fine as-is, and if you want it a bit wider, that would work fine...
Click to expand...

I'm not sure how wide the drawing was since I didn't have software handy to open the .stl file, but the ideal width for my pedalboard would be 3". That should be plenty wide for a couple of TRS jacks. For the switches and jacks, I think I've already got those on hand in my spare parts bin, but the Amazon links are definitely appreciated.

@lqdsnddist brings up a valid point about the tight fit for the third switch. If I do it that way, I'd be assigning the highest switch to something that's not likely to be used in the heat of battle. Still pondering the various possibilities.
 
Checked the dimensions...

The double-wide 3D model that I printed is 5.75 inches wide.

The single-wide 3D model is 2.87 inches wide.

So that should be pretty close to your 3.00in nominal size, with default settings. FYI: the area of spacing concern I mentioned is due to the square support beams at each corner take up some of the back wall space. I put those support beams in (and some other tapers and the cross bars) to make the enclosure very strong. At default print size for the single (2.87in wide), you'll have enough room for two TRS jacks vertically in that space... If you look at how I setup the jacks on my print, you can see the vertical TRS jack setup in the middle of the rear... works well if using right angle connectors with cables.

I mentioned before in the thread, but when drilling out holes for switches, I recommend starting with a very small pilot bit (and make sure to line up everything as wanted)... then progressively drill out the hole larger and larger until its a snug fit for your specific switches/pots/jacks. (using standard spiral/twist bits)
 
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creativespiral said:
Checked the dimensions...

The double-wide 3D model that I printed is 5.75 inches wide.

The single-wide 3D model is 2.87 inches wide.

So that should be pretty close to your 3.00in nominal size, with default settings. FYI: the area of spacing concern I mentioned is due to the square support beams at each corner take up some of the back wall space. I put those support beams in (and some other tapers and the cross bars) to make the enclosure very strong. At default print size for the single (2.87in wide), you'll have enough room for two TRS jacks vertically in that space... If you look at how I setup the jacks on my print, you can see the vertical TRS jack setup in the middle of the rear... works well if using right angle connectors with cables.
Click to expand...
Cool...I'll have him go with the 2.87 inch width. That'll buy me a tiny bit more room between my expression pedals. Your internal design looks nice and stout. He told me he did a bit of redesign of the bottom so it can be inset. I sent him an actual-size scan of the end of my FC-6 minus the rubber end cap so he can get the side and end heights right.

creativespiral said:
I mentioned before in the thread, but when drilling out holes for switches, I recommend starting with a very small pilot bit (and make sure to line up everything as wanted)... then progressively drill out the hole larger and larger until its a snug fit for your specific switches/pots/jacks. (using standard spiral/twist bits)
Click to expand...
Good advice. Sneaking up on the hole size should be pretty straightforward. I've got a well-equipped woodshop including a drill press with both spiral/twist bits and spur bits in 1/32" increments.

Amazon told him his spool of black PLA should arrive tomorrow. He's planning to run the print this weekend. 👍
 
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