Trying to get a real tube amp sound going direct into mixing board with powered QSC K12's and K10's

Never understood why cut lows and highs in the cab block if the IR's are taken front real cabinets wich already have those frequency range...
 
Thanks! Btw I find usefull the low and high cut when use the same FRFR or for recordings. When gigging at differents venues I prefer the sound guy to do his job just the same when you use a real cabinet.
 
Thanks! Btw I find usefull the low and high cut when use the same FRFR or for recordings. When gigging at differents venues I prefer the sound guy to do his job just the same when you use a real cabinet.

In my experience it doesn't make a huge difference as in most cases the most you'll get is them having the low cut switch pressed on the board cutting 80 Hz or so. You can give them a fuller frequency range and hopefully they will make the cuts needs, or you can cut those extremes yourself, and it essentially won't matter if they cut something that is already cut. Where it helps is in the events they don't do it, you've got a bit more control over your sound.

I'm generally in favor of trying to provide as dialed in of tone possible to the board, with some obvious changes in things like not running stereo patches, not using a huge diffuse reverb etc. Essentially all stuff that won't translate well to a live mono playback system. I've seen too many guys have these patches that sound amazing in stereo listening at home, or especially with headphones, a real sonic treat for the ears, but then they play live and its a smeared muddy mess as the house system in mono, the room is reverberate already etc.

I would not however suggest trying to tweak a patch for a specific room, as the sound guys generally do have some knowledge of tweaks for the room, how it sounds with a room full of bodies, vs how it sounds empty etc. I've give them a good dialed in tone, and if they feel they need to tweak it a little to account for the room, the playback system etc, let them do it.

Essentially its as simple as this.... If they can play some known tracks through the house system, and things sound pretty good, then the direct to FOH tone your sending, as its dialed in to sound good, will also work. Having run a little bit of sound in my day, I've often seen guys complain the system doesn't sound "good", because they don't like their tone. At the same time, I've had other bands sound just great, and I'll throw on some music over change-overs and everything sounds quite fine with well known recordings. So in most cases, if some didn't like their tone, its because the tone wasn't good to start with, not because I made them sound bad. Certainly it could be argued that the sound engineer should try to make them sound as good as possible, but realistically, when you've got a 15 minute changeover, your simply not going to have the time/desire to go and perfect each channel on the board, play with mic placements, worry about instrument bleed, etc etc. Its pretty much a good enough for rock n roll, just go play your set type of thing. No time or interest for guys who want 45 minutes of dialing in when they are playing a 25 minute slot at 9pm for the 12 people in the club who are busy shooting pool.
 
Great advice from Semih Yanyali! I use High cut in the cab block at 6k and Low cut at 125. I then add motor drive and air and room level. This gives a little "amp in the room" sound.
 
Never understood why cut lows and highs in the cab block if the IR's are taken front real cabinets wich already have those frequency range...

have you ever close miced a guitar cab in a studio and listened or looked at the low end on a frequency analyzer? even a sm57 has for most productions way too much low end when it comes down to mixing and placing the guitars right way...these are ofcourse not rules, changes from situation to situation.
 
Cranking the Supply Sag will give you some nice tube-y feel.

If things aren't sounding quite right to you, try running your phone into your mixer and play a record you know really well through your speakers. Immediately, you may find that it sounds harsh, or hollow in the midrange, or has way too much low end, etc... so EQ the channel until the album sounds right too you. When it feels balanced, plug your Axe in and you're set.

Your FRFR cabs are essentially your own personal PA, so just as a FOH mixer tunes the PA to the room, tuning your cab to your rig will give you the most realistic results.

For instance, I tweak all of my tones in my studio through monitors that I know really well. I compare those tones to album tones so I know exactly what's going to FOH. When we went into rehearsals, my IEM's were coloring the sound tremendously (TONS of low end and no clarity in the top end). Instead of going to Axe Edit and changing everything I put so much work into and causing a nightmare for FOH, I simply had our monitor guy EQ my mix to sound more natural by cutting some problem areas and boosting areas the IEM's were missing. The moral of the story is, tune your cabs first. It'll make your presets speak much better and make you tweak less.

Anyway, hope this helps. Good luck!
I stumbled onto this and in the midst of getting new in ears, switching from the Helix, to the Ax8, then getting an axe fx 3, I totally forgot about the IEM bus EQ. I have a great pair of custom westone 5 driver IEMs yet they were sounding exactly like you described after dialing in my sound on frfr or studio monitors. I was trying to figure out what to do on the axe fx to alleviate this (maybe 2 separate paths..one for in ears and one for FOH) and in the end forgot all about the bus eq. Duh. Thanks!
 
Signal chain. You're running a $2500 guitar processor in to a $150 Behringer Eurorack mixer. The preamps on the board are a huge part of your signal chain. There's a reason that entry level pro-sumer boards start at around $2K.
 
Signal chain. You're running a $2500 guitar processor in to a $150 Behringer Eurorack mixer. The preamps on the board are a huge part of your signal chain. There's a reason that entry level pro-sumer boards start at around $2K.
I agree, but at the same time you can get a great sound out of cheap gear. Just don't want people thinking you need a 2k mixer to sound good.
 
No, you don't but,
I agree, but at the same time you can get a great sound out of cheap gear. Just don't want people thinking you need a 2k mixer to sound good.

I noticed the OP edited their post to remove the specific type of mixer.
 
The Axe Fx direct to the PA is going to sound like a mic'd speaker through a PA... Not like a guitar cabinet in the room with you. How can I get the guitar cabinet in a room sound.

Do a search for "amp in room" on this forum and you'll find more opinions than you'll ever be able to handle.

I have heard alot of videos and other stuff done with the Axe fx that I love and am like yeah thats what I want.

Yet all of those "yeah, that's what I want", sounds are "mic'd" speakers, even if you're watching a YouTube demo of a real tube amp. If you like those tones, you should be absolutely be able to reproduce them with your AFX.
 
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