Axe-Fx III Firmware Version 3.02 Public Beta #2

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Tpj1333 said:
It’s going to be more authentic for people that need to create authentic tones and fans of the real amp equivalents
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i could make a recording where i adjust only the original controls, and another where i adjust something not on the original amp. i'm pretty sure no one would be able to tell. "authenticity" doesn't even happen between the copies of the same physical amp. *shrug*

but whatever.
 
notalemming said:
The key word is SHOULD. Just as an example I normally dial in some mids to most amps including ones that do not have a mid control. How many times has it been posted here that guitar is a mid range instrument & you need mids to cut in a mix. This will make dialing that in much more cumbersome & time consuming.
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+1 This

The entire amp block is inauthentic....and wonderful. I've owned many tube amps, ive never owned one with saturation gain, comp B+ grid voltage (I just made that up), graphic output EQ, input EQ, etc and so forth. Now you want only the knobs on the real amp? I'm sorry, but when I use Saturation, 999 times out of 1000, I'm using Ideal, not authentic. Whatever Cliff did wrong or inauthentically to his Saturation formula sounded better than the authentic one after he repaired his calculations. I can't imagine what kind of monumental housekeeping and UMF it's going to be to have knobs being different from one model to the next. Are you going to want the gain and master volume to be located in the same spot on the amp block panel as the model has in real life. Listen, Line6 is a fine company, and they do certain things very well and, user friendly. But I would never want the controls restricted to how they are in real life. We can make a Marshall sound like a Fender and vice versa. Please please please locate the knobs in the same place for every amp (like we have had for 10 years) so we are not hunting around for it!

If you want to clearly indicate knobs or parameters that don't really exist on a particular model, make them a different color or make them grayed out (but don't disable them) - but please don't take away fat, cut, sat, bright simply because the amp you are Modeling only has a master volume knob, in the name of authenticity.

Thanks
 
rodzimguitar68 said:
The entire amp block is inauthentic
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Not true.

The non-original settings are basically like amp mods. And you can make them without tools or a soldering iron.

The whole point of how Fractal models amps is about authenticity.

The controls are not "restricted", they are just moved to a different page.

Also, Cliff already posted that he's going to make it a global option.
 
Cliff has made the amp modeling so authentic at this point , that ( IMHO ) ; with the right IR , if you have picked your best amp of choice , the basic controls should get you to 99% of where you want to be.

For those of you who have been here with Fractal the longest , I understand the frustration of not having “instant” access to controls that you’ve grown accustomed to altering routinely , but times have changed.;)
This update had to be a lot of work. I love where things are going.
 
@FractalAudio just uploaded and ran into a bug - turning the drive to 10 on the Tone of Kings model results in a loud pop followed by no sound and all the output LED's lighting up. Otherwise new drives sound fantastic.
 
unix-guy said:
Not true.

The non-original settings are basically like amp mods. And you can make them without tools or a soldering iron.

The whole point of how Fractal models amps is about authenticity.

The controls are not "restricted", they are just moved to a different page.

Also, Cliff already posted that he's going to make it a global option.
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exactly!

On my 12000 series Metro I would get zapped multiple times because I fiddled with the bias, NFB and tone stack with the amp running. Also I had to open it up first, get the chassis out, support the output transformer...
Compared to this, navigating to a different parameter page to do the same thing is pretty convenient I would say.
 
shatteredsquare said:
can there be 'zero quantity' on the diodes? that way you can get only op-amp distortion? It just sounds like crappy hard clipping, but it's my favorite of favorite type of drive sound.
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So I was listening to Josh Scott of JHS Pedals, and then saw your posted video, and then got a little confused. Andy from Pro Guitar Shop says (@3:49) he is using the OP Amp with no diodes for "raw distortion". Josh says (@46:10) the OP Amp is "super clean", and the diodes clamping the super clean OP Amp creates drive and distortion. The whole video was a nice introduction of the changing technologies to help me start to understand why I would choose to use Germanium, Silicon, etc. I know... just use your ears.



It seems like they can't both be right. Am I missing something?
 
I will probably continue to use the amp controls in FAS mode but I think it's a great option for users that only want default controls. Some will really like it.
 
The best way to do it is like eventide. Where you have different levels of operation. On the h8000 you set a basic or advanced mode of operation. Displaying Appropriate parameters per mode. Just a thought.Myself I don’t care about authentic. I love tone control Authentic is for babies:)
 
FractalAudio said:
3.02

Tone page of Amp block now displays controls consistent with model. The full complement of tone and gain controls is available under the Advanced tab. Note: this change necessitates that the Bass, Mid and Treble controls are reset when changing the amp type. On some models extra controls (i.e. Bright, Depth) are included as common modifications include altering these values.
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My wish came true so fast! ;-) Thanks so much Cliff! This is so great!!
 
CipherHost said:
So I was listening to Josh Scott of JHS Pedals, and then saw your posted video, and then got a little confused. Andy from Pro Guitar Shop says (@3:49) he is using the OP Amp with no diodes for "raw distortion". Josh says (@46:10) the OP Amp is "super clean", and the diodes clamping the super clean OP Amp creates drive and distortion. The whole video was a nice introduction of the changing technologies to help me start to understand why I would choose to use Germanium, Silicon, etc. I know... just use your ears.



It seems like they can't both be right. Am I missing something?
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i think it's 'super clean op amp' as a clean boost until you push it, where it starts clipping hard. i like it best for the hard clipping, no diodes.
 
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