#1 Biggest User Error

My Jet City has two distinct points of response in the MV. The first is crossed around 3, where the amp wakes up and starts breathing properly. The second is around 5, where it really starts roaring. I've checked it with a meter and the amp stops gaining volume soon after - at about 6 - and simply compresses and sags more. So if you set it to noon and think "jesus how much louder does this thing get when all the way", the answer is none.
 
:encouragement::encouragement:

Master Volume: The Most Overlooked Amp Knob Despite Its Literally Being Called "Master"...so much more than just a "volume" knob.

Totally, I know it took me a long time to finally get over the fact it's not just a Volume knob, and is labeled Master for a reason, it does much more, glad this topic is coming up again, very important concept to understand to help get the most out of the Axe..
 
I was helping a customer out yesterday. He was complaining about lack of feel and thinness. I asked him what his Master Volume was set at. He said 1.5. I asked "why so low?". He said "because that's where I set it on the real amp". I explained that the MV on the Axe-Fx has a much gentler taper than real amp and that 1.5 on the real amp is probably around 5 or more on the Axe-Fx. So he cranked the MV up and exclaimed "wow, that's what I'm looking for!".

The MV taper on the Axe-Fx is a Log15A taper. This means the output is 15% of the input when the "pot" is at noon. Most amps use a higher taper than this, say 30A or even a linear taper. This is done as a marketing ploy. The unsuspecting customer sets the MV to 2.0 and goes "wow, this amp is loud". Thing is the amp doesn't get much louder. This also makes adjustment difficult because most of your volume range is constrained to a small fraction of the dial rotation. The Axe-Fx uses a gentler taper so that you can fine-tune the MV easier.

So don't be afraid to crank that MV up. When the MV is turned up the virtual power amp works harder which causes the virtual power supply to sag which adds compression which adds feel. It also thickens up the tone when you play harder because the power amp is distorting. You'll get much better results if you learn to find the sweet spot. While playing, turn up the MV until the volume stops getting louder. At this point you are driving the power amp into heavy distortion. Now back off the MV until you get the desired tone and feel. With practice you'll learn to identify how much the power amp is being pushed and where the sweet spot is.


(Ugh, re-reading this I see ended at least two sentences with prepositions, oh well).

Does each amp model still default to your suggested MV when selected?


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This is done as a marketing ploy. The unsuspecting customer sets the MV to 2.0 and goes "wow, this amp is loud". Thing is the amp doesn't get much louder. This also makes adjustment difficult because most of your volume range is constrained to a small fraction of the dial rotation.
Yes!

This is a pet peeve of mine. How many times have I heard, "My amp is so loud. I've never turned it up past 4." Then you try to find that spot where the amp opens up but doesn't squash, only to find there's a razor-thin range somewhere between 2 and 3 on the dial that you have to find.
 
Yes!

This is a pet peeve of mine. How many times have I heard, "My amp is so loud. I've never turned it up past 4." Then you try to find that spot where the amp opens up but doesn't squash, only to find there's a razor-thin range somewhere between 2 and 3 on the dial that you have to find.

My Marshall 68 50w Plexi and both my '78 50 watters (model 1987) sound awful until they are on 8. They don't get any louder after 4 or 5 but they get to were they were voiced to sound good at about 8. After that they squash down a bit too much with no more apparent gain. On 2, they sound broken haha.
 
My Marshall 68 50w Plexi and both my '78 50 watters (model 1987) sound awful until they are on 8. They don't get any louder after 4 or 5 but they get to were they were voiced to sound good at about 8. After that they squash down a bit too much with no more apparent gain. On 2, they sound broken haha.

Those amps don't have Master Volumes. We're talking about MASTER Volume here, not Volume.
 
Had I owned many amps I might have made the same mistake; luckily I didn't spend the $ and I guess I really lucked out on finding the good tones in the Axe FX. Since I've owned the Ultra and Axe II, for most amp models I use I've tended to go to MV at about 10pm to 2pm, and for the most part I've noticed a sweet spot in that range. Some metal amps seem to like a lower setting, and obviously there are amps that are fun at higher settings. But I've always imagined that the "feel" thing is influenced by MV. I never understood a thing about the tube behavior and stuff, but since I tend to like interesting harmonics, I imagined that a higher setting would likely add them rather than take them away. As the Axe FX behavior got more real, I noticed that these personal sweet spots changed a good bit; but also they got easier to hear.
 
As much as I appreciate the insight on proper MV settings from Cliff, I really appreciate the insight on putting grammar nazis in their place regarding ending sentences with prepositions. And note, I hate the Oxford comma!
 
I find using the Quick Selection controls when on the "amp selection tab" in the AMP block is the perfect way to quickly find a given amps sweet spot (especially if you are auditioning through a lot of them); you have direct access to Drive, Master, and overall preset volume enabling you to find the character of an amp very fast, as well as get it just where you want it.

On amps with a MV exploring that control throughout it's range, along with tuning the input Drive, is absolutely mandatory to get it's 'vibe' IMO. The MV has such a huge influence in tone/distortion/feel and overall character of am amp it's essential to fiddle with. Crank it too high and the amp falls apart/splatters/mushes out, back it off until you find nirvana...
 
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